Good climb though the route climbing was not obvious to me. Surprising for such a popular route. I led for Kali and Eric.
My first multipitch climb in Yosemite. Quite fun, but very spooky, particularly the mantle near the top. 5 Stars!
Shared leads then went back and lead the cruxes.
10 years ago, bailed from p2 ledge after waiting in line for a couple hours. This time got on route first and had a blast. 5.9 variation was pretty straight-forward and a fun p1.
I wimped out on this one. Only led the second pitch. Topped out despite not having my head in the game.
Climbed with Justing on a nice day in the Valley. Led the 5.8 lieback start .. hung on gear contemplating the polished rock before going for the exit at the lip. Almost slipped off pulling over !
Pitch 3 was thought-provoking but fun, glad I followed that one, because it was a little wet :) Led pitch 4, which was great.
Got to the mantel on the last pitch, plugged in some gear, tried the move, but just couldn't make it and didn't want to break any more bones, so just downclimbed left to a tree with some slings. From there I headed left, up easier terrain, then traversed back right -- above the mantel, and to the top.
When I got home I discovered that the FA didn't include the mantel; people didn't start doing that until the second ascent.
Day trip from Reno to the Valley, a very fun climb on the 5.8 LB variation. A superb climbing adventure over 5 pitches.
Robin and I took a strange new friend we met in camp4 the night before. Godseidank we did since I needed him to lead the mantle- the ankle threatening move freaked me out and then of course with rope above it was very doable. Stout route. Good times- we met Ritwik that day too.
The 5.9 var. was my 1st intro to Valley climbing in Spring of '82. I somehow ended up with a bloodied shin. Read somewhere that Robbins initially called it Nutcracker Sweet (play on Suite) as per his penchant for word play.
Option #2..slipery but fun!, for me the crux is in the mantle.
Finger crack pitch to start is really fun.
To manage the mantle; there are footholds on the left to help push the lard up over the hump.
I forget the exact date. There were about twenty people on the route, including Steve Schneider who was loudly complaining about the crowd. If I recall correctly, it was his 40th birthday and he was celebrating by climbing 40 pitches that day -- he climbed the Nose on El Capitan earlier in the day.
That's perfectly normal since the option #3 takes you to the top of pitch #2 where all the variations end up. The mantle pitch is pitch #5. So you were on route the whole time.