Somehow I had done Orphan several times over the years and never noticed Dandelion. This is an under rated climb next to some of the more popular climbs in Jtree. It is the obvious wide traversing crack which intersects a vertical smaller shallow crack that leads to a punchy slab finish protected by a bolt. I placed a C4#3 and #4 on the traverse. The guide calls this horizontal thin, but it is not. It is a fun, reachy and athletic move off of a stem for the exposed transition from the horizontal to the vertical. Single standard rack to C4#4. Can use Toe Jam’s fixed rap to descend the other side. The start has options. I took the FA start which is left. A crux (but not at the grade) mantle to pull out of a groove leads to easier ground and the start of the crack system.
Have done three routes on the west side: Dogleg, Double Cross and Sexy Grandma. Dogleg took me all the way to the top.
Located just to the right of Sexy Grandma. Miramontes guide only shows two bolts on the upper reaches of Band Saw, yet the crux climbing is on the lower wall. In reality there is one bolt on the lower wall but again, there are 5.10RX moves to reach it. A lower bolt has been placed and removed at some point. All that being said, this is a decent face/slab climb. Thin edges on the vertical lower half, easier climbing via slab the second half. Split by a horizontal that takes medium gear and pulls a small roof to the right. Rap Sexy Grandma.
I had an anally slow "teacher" but I finally got to climb the stupid thing before the sun went down.
Climbed to the top of this cool pile o rock a few times. Lead Toe Jam and Dogleg, followed Double Cross and Geronimo- all great routes!
Confused why Miramonte calls this "sandbagged" and "awkward". I really good 5.8, but not sandbagged in my opinion. Easier than the Flake for example. The (intended) start is sort of a slab reach dyno thing if you are short, but well protected. The rest is secure jams. Better than Double Cross in my opinion...prob an overlooked route due to the guide book comments. Worth doing with Sexy Grandma, Double Cross and Orphan for a solid four routes in the sun.
With Jason and Janice. I really enjoyed the pull out to arete move on this route. Worth doing with Dogleg, Double Cross and Orphan for a solid four routes in the sun.
Double Cross and Toe Jam were sweet climbs!
Led on a clear autumn day. Climbed with Justing.
Also followed Double Cross in Nov. 2009 and Dogleg & Toe Jam another time in Nov. 2006.
Climbed Toe Jam which was a fun route and Double Cross which rightly deserves its classic status. I don't know why people are spooked by this route unless you don't know how to jam. Double Start, which is right next to Double Cross is a decent alternative if waiting in line.
Little stupid fall at the start of Dogleg. Sort of a reach off the ground. Double Cross is awesome!
There was a loose jug at the start of Dogleg. When I did it, I know the hold was a gonner. I haven't done Dogleg since that hold fell off. The start is now way harder, and the fall pretty bad into that hole.
Toe Jamb: One of my first leads ever at Josh
Double Cross: Backed off from this one once after seeing a guy hit the deck from the top of Trashcan rock. Spooked me for the rest of the day. Came back a second time and had a blast.
What happened to the guy who fell from the top of Trashcan Rocks? Did he make it?
Yeah, he was setting up a toprope for his two sons, and slipped while yanking on a wad of webbing. I actually felt the impact in the soles of my feet when he landed about 20 feet from me.
He of course went into shock, and impacted his elbow joint, maybe fractured, the swelling was spectacular. He also cracked at least one rib, but overall, he seemed Ok, no internal or head injuries apparantly. Wife drove him out of the park after my nurse\wife gave him a good going over.
The worst part was the hysteria from his sons as they heard and saw him fall, but didn't see him land.