Magical Chrome-Plated is one of those classic and wonderful routes you can't wait to tackle again. While many of the classic Lumpy routes lie on the nearby Book formation, this is easily the most popular route on the Pear. The full route is five pitches, but there are convenient walk-offs after P2 and P4. The final pitch (the crux) goes at 5.7, but the remainder of the climb is 5.6 and below with a little bit of everything from delicate face moves to burly laybacks and flaring jam cracks. Many parties climb the first two pitches only as these are the most noteworthy and fun of the route.
Hike 1.5 miles west on the Black Canyon Trail from the Twin Owls TH to a sign saying "Pear". Leave the main trail and approach the obvious formation on a well-worn climber's trail.
The Pear from the approach trail. Magical is noted in red.
Magical Chrome-Plated starts just left of the huge, left-facing dihedral about half-way across the bottom of the Pear.
- Scramble up a short gulley about 20' left of the dihedral. Climb a short easy crack to a horizontal ledge. Traverse left to a second crack and climb until you feel comfortable traversing left. While fairly easy, the 30' of traverse has essentially no protection, so make sure your last piece is bomber. Finish in a comfortable belay alcove below a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral with two small roofs. (5.5)
Wonderful bold moves on P2.
- Climb the steep dihedral utilizing the excellant hand crack at the joint. The crux is getting past the first of two roofs which can be accomplished with well-protected but strong undercling moves. As the angle eases and the crack widens to unprotectability, mantle left onto a face and continue to a horizontal fissure with a large tree (5.6). An easy walk-off is possible here to the left.
- Traverse left and climb a short wall to the now-diminished remains of the huge, left-facing roof. Climb the exposed but easy ramp to a small, triangular belay stance below one of several flaring hand cracks on the right. (5.3)
P4 and the origins of the name.
- Climb one of several moderate-angle flaring hand cracks, overcoming some bulges by mantling and stemming. Belay from a large, broken ledge below the final headwall (5.5). Scramble off to climber's left here. When you reach the left edge of the wall, bear right through the narrow, dark chasm that separates the Pear from the rest of the massif.
- Traverse right and climb a steep face under a small roof. Undercling the tricky roof (5.7) and make your way to the top of the formation by whatever way seems best.
From P2, walk off left and down an easy gulley to the base of the rock. From P4, walk left to the edge of the rock and head right into the dramatic Trench. From the summit there are two sets of rappel anchors. Supposedly, the left anchors (higher and closer to the actual summit) can be used for a single 100' rappel into the Trench. Lower on the formation, to climber's right, a second set of anchors provide a shorter rappel. From the Trench, continue east and down a rough trail along the east edge of the rock.
A standard Lumpy trad rack is perfect. I used large nuts and medium-large cams. Large cams (or better yet, hexes) are nice above the crux on P2. A sixty meter rope will let you do either rappel in one pitch and will let you get the most from each pitch.