You can combine pitch 1 and 2 if you have a 60 meter rope, and the belayer is situated in the big trough at the bottom (rather than on the ground.)
Also, if you go up from pitch 4 (instead of traversing around to the right) that variation goes at 5.9+ and is very interesting and fun climbing with reasonable protection.
Good route description!
If there are slow parties on the first two pitches of this climb (very likely), or you just want to do a more direct, more fun, 5.7 start, try La Chaim just to the left. This line follows the vertical white dike (p1) to an awesome fingercrack. Start in a short, slippery right facing dihedral to a long section of very runout 5.5-5.7 face climbing. belay at the far right side of the long arched overhang below the finger crack. Climb up and step left (crux for me) into the finger crack and follow it to the huge ledge. follow Enema from there.
Augie Medina - Oct 28, 2006 12:41 am - Voted 10/10
Nice PageGood route description.
CharlesD - Oct 28, 2006 1:19 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice PageThanks! It's a wonderful route.
Kai - Oct 24, 2008 3:46 am - Voted 10/10
Fun RouteYou can combine pitch 1 and 2 if you have a 60 meter rope, and the belayer is situated in the big trough at the bottom (rather than on the ground.)
Also, if you go up from pitch 4 (instead of traversing around to the right) that variation goes at 5.9+ and is very interesting and fun climbing with reasonable protection.
colint - Jun 8, 2009 1:50 pm - Voted 10/10
variation startGood route description!
If there are slow parties on the first two pitches of this climb (very likely), or you just want to do a more direct, more fun, 5.7 start, try La Chaim just to the left. This line follows the vertical white dike (p1) to an awesome fingercrack. Start in a short, slippery right facing dihedral to a long section of very runout 5.5-5.7 face climbing. belay at the far right side of the long arched overhang below the finger crack. Climb up and step left (crux for me) into the finger crack and follow it to the huge ledge. follow Enema from there.