Route was in good condition, though a little wet. Top pitch felt 4+ when we climbed it. Would repeat this route.
For a full on classic Bow Valley experience I highly recommend the canoe in if it is not too cold. Plus, you will baffle other groups wondering why there were not tracks on the trail in! However, I'm not sure how the floods will have affected the feasibility of this option.
Very enjoyable climb. We had perfect weather and great conditions. The final pitch was quite interesting and also very wet. Managed to borrow a couple bikes from a friend who lives in Calgary. Took us about 30 minutes to bike in. Met a couple guys at the base of the climb who got up real early and walked in. Took them an hour and twenty minutes. Glad we had the bikes :)
Had a great day with my old climbing buddy Jason on April 7, 2013.
I think I first climbed Professor’s with Ian Hunt, Andy Meyers and Geoff (?) in December of 1995. I am fairly sure I repeated the route in 96, 97, 98, 99 and I sure the second last time I was there was in March of 2000 with Shawn Klimchuk.
We went up just the first 3 pitches, that time it was a little bit to dificult for us.I have not been back since but I am sure I will.
Finished off a short but sweet ice season (Slipstream, WW, Nemesis, Pilsner, Sorcerer, Hydro and a few others) with a quick solo lap up Professors. Conditions were near perfect and the final pitch really cruiser.
A bitter cold -30 degree day, but the sun still had water dripping down the route. It was a wet day with a long slushy rappell in the dark. Nice approach along the golf course, beautiful views of the Bow River valley.
I thought it was easy.
Seth and I borrowed bikes from our housemate and enjoyed the ride to the base, where a party of two guides were just starting up. We passed them at the first chance, soloed the WI3 pitches and found the crux pitch in dry condition--as dry as it gets, a couple of locals who came up behind us said. The ice was hard, requiring a lot of cleaning, the pro was a little work, but the climbing was fun--by far the best pitch. Got totally soaked on rappel.
Definitely a friendly climb. There are four really nice pitches of ice. Certainly deserving of its popularity.
We had bikes and managed to be first on the climb (slept in the back of my truck at the parking lot - not recommended; a very noisy place). The climb was totally enjoyable and not really that wet. The last pitch was funky and we found it quite fun. When we got to the top, we climbed up and looked at Terminator and his friends. Made my bowels a little watery. On the way down, we rapped through four parties and met another coming in on the path out. We climbed Polar Circus the next day for a stellar weekend warrior trip.
Got to climb with John Freeman (Berg Int'l) on this particular day. The first 4 pitches were very wet and by the last pitch, my gloves were soaked. On descent, the temp went down considerably and they froze completely. Interesting rapelling with frozen gloves!! The last pitch was tougher then I imagined. Solid WI4 classic!
Climbed it with Nayden in very dry condition with the exception of some of the shorter steps that got our ropes a little wet. Last pitch (normally crux) was in very easy shape (stair case climbing), easier than the first three pitches. Easy and pleasant day, this climb is always a joy!
Bike in was very icy, but miraculously neither of us wiped out! 35-40 minutes each way.
Steve led P1 and P4, and I led P2 and P3. Bailed on crux pitch, since it looked very wet, chandeliered and we didn't want to get thoroughly soaked :)
Lots of hooks and steps, making for some easy first "WI4" leads for me :) Actually because of that and the soft plastic ice I call them more WI3+.
The day was warm, in the 40's. The bottom pitches had water running but it was not so bad if you chose a good line. Bolted belays in good shape. Avy debris in the gully just before last pitch.
For the umpteenth time. With Steve and Jackie. Steve had never led the lower pitches before and insisted on another day at Professors. I led the nasty last pitch. Not everybody will be up for leading it right now. Pissing as usual, no, actually more than usual. The worse was setting up top rope for the other two, I decided to be a gentlemen and take my gear out as I rapped so they would not get so wet taking it out. Freaking soaked, pants and boots filled with water as the rope set up its own waterfall. Found a few good screws lower, the upper ones are worthless, just run it out. Fellow SPer Kevin Craig and others from CO followed behind us. Small SP world. Cheers.
It was my second time on this classic route. The ice was great, the weather was beautiful, and all five of us had a great time... Yep, 5! Probably one of my more memorable days out climbing with the gang. Thanks to Canmore local Petr for the great place to stay during our vacation North.
nice climb, but confusing how it could be -15 and have such wet conditions. rope froze, so we went from belaying w/ atc's, to belaying with munter's.
This route is so much fun. Make sure to bring ropes to rap with. No easy walk off here.
Did Professor yesterday, May 1, still good shape, actually better than when we did it over a month ago. The road along the golf course is open to the public now (summer rules) meaning you only have to bike in from the trailhead.
We did all 6 pitches...two other parties bailed on that last and most difficult pitch. It was extremely wet and hard to make any good placements. Adam led the pitch and chopped away at it for ever. Using bikes on the approach was definitely worth it. Once we topped out, we scrambled up ice and snow to the right and caught a glimpse of one of the extreme routes to the west. Did I count 5 full raps? The way those benches run out, it makes for more rappels than you would think.
Excellent climb in a very nice setting. Bottom pitches dry and a bit brittle, last pitch wet and airy with no pro. A party on Sea of Vapours was entertaining to watch from the top.