The Prow: Standard Route

Page Type
Montana, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical rock climb
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Aug 2, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 2, 2004


From the Beehive Basin trailhead, follow the obvious trail 2.5 miles to the lake. You will be almost directly below the Prow at this point. Head around the lake and then up and right, scrambling until you reach the base of this prominent feature.

Route Description

Start at the base of the Prow, located just above the small alpine lake that marks the end of the maintained trail in Beehive basin. This is BELOW the headwall of the peak proper. Climb the buttress right of the huge Southwest dihedral, starting on south-facing rock. The face climbing is fairly obvious, but make sure that you are ascending the tower-like feature that ends halfway up the face.

P1: From the base of the rock, climb a slightly runout but very positive face up to the ridge crest, roughly 50 meters. 5.7
P2: Continue up the ridge on excellent rock with good pro for another 30-40 meters. Belay at the junction of the ridge and the main wall. 5.6
P3: Traverse left, trending slightly upwards, for 35 meters, until you are just right of the airy and exposed arete. Belay below the broken white crystalline rock. 5.6
P4: Straight up the exposed and excellent face for 50 meters. The guidebook says that this pitch is the crux (at 5.10-) but it's really more like 5.8+ or 5.9, with the most difficult moves being pulling through the crumbly white rock onto the face.
P5: Path of least resistance to the top. 5.6-ish

BE AWARE: There is loose rock. You will probably dislodge some pieces with your rope, your feet, and your hands. You might knock off some large pieces if you are not careful. Climb with caution and don't drop bombs on your belayer.

Descend by walking off the back , right or left.

Essential Gear

Rope: 1x60 meter, or 2x60 meter if you like half ropes. Might be able to lessen rope drag with two ropes.

Pro: Standard rock rack to #3 Camalot, with extra TCU's or Aliens. Small cams are nice, especially up high. 8-10+ slings, depending on your comfort level.

Helmet is essential.

Miscellaneous Info

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