The Prow

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
big wall
Time Required:
One to two days
Difficulty:
V, 5.6 - 5.10, C3
Number of Pitches:
12
Grade:
V

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Page By:
The Prow
Created On: Jun 2, 2003
Last Edited On: Jun 19, 2006

Approach

Hike east from the Ahwahnee Hotel parking lot, then north and up to the base of the Column.

Route Description

This excellent 12 pitch route is a great introduction to big wall climbing. This route was originally climbed by Royal Robbins and Glen Denny in 1969. While no longer A4, it follows a wildly exposed classic line up the Column.
Please consult one of the topo guides listed under books for a complete route description.
Pitch 1 - starting right of the South Face, a 150' pitch ( 5.10a or C1 followed by 5.6, then 5.11 or C1 ) leads to a stance at a hidden ledge. Pitch 2 - a 90' C2 pitch leads to a sling belay. Pitch 3 - a C1 pitch leads to Anchorage Ledge. Pitch 4 -6 - discontinuous cracks and bolts lead up the blank wall ( hooks needed ) to the " Strange Dihedral ". Pitch 7 climbs this formation to a stance. Pitch 8 - tension traverse right to a thin C2 crack, then climb to Tapir Terrace. Climb a corner to a right facing dihedral. Two more pitches lead to the top.

For descent info, see the North Dome Gully info page -North Dome Gully


Essential Gear

3 each cams .5" - 1.25", 2 each cams 1.5" - 3.5", 1 each 4.5", 2 each nuts ( off set nuts ), 2 each micro nuts, hooks, cam hooks

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.