The Sheepshead Climber's Log

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rpc - Jan 4, 2008 6:01 pm

Tree Roots  Sucess!

Unnamed (right of Stampede) (Jan. 2009). Beautiful modern line - nicely bolted where needed and trad protected otherwise. Pitch 2 is pretty amazing: you get slab moves, thin hands crack, flared chimney, finger crack and a steepish face finish all in a 120' package! Shirley led evens (which are probably the funnest)...feels like a big "+" in 5.9+...

Climb Too Tough To Die (Jan. 2009). A very fun route! Not very sustained pitches but every pitch seems to have some itneresting moves. Mostly a bolted climb, except for a crack midway up P1. Finishing pitch is pretty spectacular. Shirley led evens & I did odds.

Absinthe Of Mallet (Dec. 2007). Is very nice! Very excite to be there!! Great climbing - a mix of different types with much slab terrain (crux sections were generally either slab or crimpy face IMHO) & a touch of cracks. Shirley & I swapped leads with Shirley leading the odds. Warm & sunny & at least 3 other parties on the dome that day. Never seen Cochise Stronghold this crowded. PS: We drove about 55 hrs. during the 4 day weekend to climb this route -- seeing the sun (if only for a day) was well worth the price.

Peacemaker (Feb. 2007). Shirley & I climbed Peacemaker. Were planning on something else but weather looked threatening & we needed to get back to Phoenix in the afternoon for a flight home = Peacemaker with its non-committing nature fit the bill. Very well protected (basically a sport climb) and (with exception of one hard move on Warpaint) similar in difficulty to Warpaint (10c).

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