Started at 4:30am with my buddy Easton. We had a great pace heading up past all the lakes and saw a couple other groups making their way across the gorge approaching The Spearhead. We approached it from the West side and made our ascent. Couldn't quite find what looked like the routes described on Summit Post, but what we found was comfortable enough Class 3 scrambling. Pretty simple up — didn't quite have the nerve to walk the catwalk. Tried to descend on the "correct" route, but we couldn't find it, so we dropped down the east side which was actually much more pleasant. A little bit more steep, but the footing was more sure. We made our way to Green Lake, then proceeded back to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. Amazing hike!
The standard NW slopes route
Started around 6:30AM from Glacier Gorge trailhead. Climbed up to Green Lake before ascending the east slopes to the lowest part of the ridge. Followed the ridge north to summit. Descended via the slopes on the west side. Not a bad climb for just winging it. Back at car just before 1PM.
It was a pretty nice late summer day on Spearhead. Climbed Syckle route in 8? pitches. With Jen.
north ridge with mike, 5.7/7P. very happy we were to get in this high quality of an alpine line before july! a few snow patches made for some wet chimney climbing avoidance on P1 and blocked the possibly easiest line at the top. spectacular position!
North Ridge with Jamie, some snow choked in a couple of places in some of the chimneys forced us into a few harder moves, probably did the route at more of a 5.7 or 5.8 as a result of our line. Fun line and some good climbing, wind was a little unnerving though!
It's alpine climbing! Fun times!
Sort of -- I went too far north on the way up, but found the right route on the way down. 3rd class at most. Trip report.
This rock has so many great routes and bivy sites I could spend weeks here as a base to hit Arrowhead, McHenry's, Chiefshead, and Pagoda.
Fun, relaxing climb. Get started early to avoid the crowds.
Perfect climb. Descent was awkward to find and at times annoying, but it's all there. Bivy sites are good, but still windy. Views are unmatched.
Early July 2010 - Had to bail when a storm hit before the last pitch. Just did a long easy traverse to the descent gully instead of topping out. Had plenty of time to beat the storm, but an inconsiderate climber screwed us over. I'll take part of the blame,though, because I should've chewed him out instead of letting him screw us over. He started climbing right after us, set up his 1st belay 5 feet ABOVE my belayer in a tight chimney while I was leading, cut my friend off his route when it was his turn to lead, created some scary situations by not communicating well with his belayer who had never done a multi-pitch before, etc.
Combined The Spearhead with Chiefs Head. Awesome summit, too bad it isn't ranked!
I am not a California surfer, nor do I have anything against them, or the way they talk, but I HAVE to steal some of their phraseology to describe this hike. It was wickedly awesome. Easily top 3 hikes in awesomeness that I have ever done. Incredible.
With Jim C. Stellar climbing, amazing summit. Not bad for first rock climb of the year!
A fun route in a spectacular setting!
We did this awesome climb a couple years ago and it is truly wonderful! Car to car made for a long day, but it was totally worth it. One of my favorite climbs in more than 30 years of climbing.
The hike up Glacier Gorge had incredible scenery and I enjoyed the approach quite a bit. The climb itself was pretty interesting with good scrambling and an exciting finish. For an extra scare you can look 1,500 straight down the north face from the summit. Great views of the surrounding peaks. Definitely worth the effort.