The Stance

The Stance. Photo from the ascend on Mnich, High Tatra.

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saulius

saulius - Mar 28, 2007 3:53 pm - Hasn't voted

Congratulations!

... this is a great trip report! :) We also had a couple of winter trips to the High Tatras this year and really enjoyed some technical ascents in the area.

However, I cannot take my eyes from this photo, as the stance does not seem to be solid to me. I suppose that the piece of rock you’re anchoring to is not “alive”, yet why didn’t you use slings to set it up instead of nuts, which seem to be less secure in terms of load-bearing and the safety of placement itself?

Also, if you used Reverso for belay, it must have been placed incorrectly. For auto-locking mode you have to clip the other side of Reverso (which is thicker) into the anchor and use another carabiner for locking: http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportConseils?Conseil=34.

Finally, perhaps it’s safer to clip your daisy-chain (especially if it is used for self-belay) into the equalized anchor, but not to one of its ends…

Just to be on the safe side!... ;)

Saulius

P.S. what was the name of the route you chose for Mnich?

arturf

arturf - Mar 31, 2007 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Congratulations!

Thank You very much for Your comments! I realy appreciate, that You wish to help. As You've probably understood from TR, it was a bit crazy ascent...

Ok, now regarding Your coments - the piece of rock was not alive, inspite it can seem this way on photo. I agree, that using slings would be a better idea, but all of cracks' ends were pretty rounded, so I couldn't find any safe place to fix them.

Regarding self-baley sling - 100% agree. Crazy placement! But it wasn't mine one :)

Regarding reverso - You're comment is also very good, but in that case I didn't need autolock, as there was no possibility of strong fall. Just steep slippy rock, no vertical sections.

In fact, I don't know the name of the route. As I've told in TR, our instructor have told me to search for the route myself without giving me any concrete directions. It was cool! :)

Best wishes in Your adventures! Artur.

P.S.: It was the idea of placing the photo - to wonder if somebody would tell me everything he thinks of what he saw on the image. Thank You, that You've done it!

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