The crux of the route is climbing out of a shallow slot that is key to reaching the upper part of the mountain, where the yellow sandstone changes to red. There are two viable options. The first is the "cheating" option and is shown here; wedged against a tree is a pile of rocks someone seemingly made as a step. This step makes the transition from yellow to red much easier, especially for people who are not tall; it's a short, "easy" Class 4 but might be Class 5 without the step. The second option is a little to the right of the step and is shown in another picture on the route page; it is a short Class 4 pitch that is mostly a friction climb but does have some small holds.

(Full disclosure-- my first time up Red Cap, using the White Gully route, I did use the step, not actually noticing the other pitch, but I used the other option the next time I was at that spot. Anyway, if that step is still there when you climb, don't feel ashamed about using it if you judge that it is the best and safest way for you.)

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, NV-- April 2011


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philadendron - Nov 15, 2014 7:47 pm - Hasn't voted


I used this to descend today, on my way towards Grey Cap. I threw my bag down into the bush in this photo to allow myself to more easily smear my 5'7" body down to safely get a foot on the pile of rocks.

On the way up, I used a narrow crack that required passing my pack up, then using some stemming moves to get up through. I think it would be harder for more rotund people.

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