The Toe Crack

Page Type
New Hampshire, United States, North America
Route Type:
trad climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Created On: Oct 12, 2004
Last Edited On: Oct 12, 2004


approach as for Thin Air, but don't go all the way up to that route. About 100 yards before it, there is a promiment right-angling ramp that is the normal start to the Standard Route; this is also the start to the Toe Crack (which is really a variation of Standard).

Route Description

Some descriptions suggest going up the ramp and then part way up the crack, making the pitches 5.7 and 5.6. We did the ramp in one pitch, and the entire crack in the second. Theoretically, this makes them 5.5 and 5.7. However, don't be fooled by the 5.5 rating of the first pitch - psychologically it is probably more difficult than the crack itself, especially for the second.

Climb the ramp until it ends, and begin traversing right towards the big, prominent flake (Turner's Flake), aiming for a ledge. The crux is gettting from the flake onto a ledge; you have to make a pretty long step onto a partly hidden hold. This may actually be scarier for the second, because you are stepping down onto the ledge. Belay at the base of the crack, which runs from the middle of the ledge.

Climb the crack to its top, where there is a tree anchor from which you can rap to the ground with 2 60-meter ropes. This is about as classic a 5.7 crack as you get in New Hampshire; sustained, but straightforward. The upper section is a little bit easier, but still pretty sustained.

Essential Gear

Bring some large nuts, hexes and larger camalots. Remember to place gear for your second on the first pitch.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

The Toe Crack

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