Approach west face via talus highway.
This was reportedly the first offical route on Tahquitz Rock in 1936. To locate, start scoping out the western face and large block of granite at the top of a talus highway. This is Lunch Rock, the basic focal point for locating routes along the base of Tahquitz' western face.
From the Ernie Maxwell Trail, take the first accessible climber's trail, which will be on your left, directly across from a large obvious boulder on your right of the trail. These unmaintained trails may be hard to spot after heavy rainful and early season. Should only be a few minutes from start of main trail head. Switchback trail goes for 45 minutes of huffing, puffing to the base of Tahquitz Rock and you'll need to turn left to follow along edge until reaching beginning of "The Trough."
Siting Lunch Rock means that you are in the right area. Now turn left.
Continue straight up the base and scramble to the left, some 4th class moves over boulders and up through a chockstone chimney. Walk across ledge until coming to an obvious easy seam that leads upward on a low angle slope.
You may also veer left from switchback climbers' trail and jump onto the talus highway which leads directly to Lunch Rock.
"The Trough" is a 3- to 4-pitch climb, depending on how impatient you are to complete it. Belays along the way will be simple to spot and excellent for protection. An efficient team will complete this route in under an hour, whereas most teams with newcomers take about 3 hours. I've free soloed this route countless times and completed in 20 minutes even with some sight-seeing along the way.
First pitch is easy slab and some awkward chimney-type moves for the initial 60'. You will navigate a 15' slab to your left with good placements of gear under a lip most
of the way across. Once transitted across slab, the trough
opens in front of you and the only way to go is up. Moves involve squeezing, twisting, scrunching, and stretching. I declare this route made for an individual approx 67" tall, no more, no less. Belay at tree on your left or any appropriate gear placement area nearby.
From first belay, looking down at lovely child climber.
Second pitch involves more squeezing and stretching with silent magical holds deep within the crack. You'll reach an exposed slab move as the route bears right to a large pine on a healthy ledge; continuing upward puts you on "Piton Pooper," a grunt of a 5.8 climb. Belay from tree usually overly-equipped with an assortment of slings.[img:243816:alignright:small:Slab exposure as route bears right.]
Third pitch is more often done 'sans' rope and gear as it barely rates to be called Class 5. Plenty of places for good gear and excellent belay at yet another pine. Beware of dead tree across route snagging rope, although I've seen this fallen tree disintegrate to almost pulp in the past 6 years.
At completion of third pitch at last tree, gather your partners and gear and scamper straight up bulbous slab to lower summit of Tahquitz Rock - the route has ended. Now find the Friction Descent or take scramble to true summit and sign log book, then walk off and take trail either to the left for North Gulley descent
, or right on trail that skirts the rock back to origination of route.
"The Trough" is an all trad technical climb, gear up to 3" required.
50m or 60m rope
Lots of runners and draws
Extra slings for anchoring off trees
Helmets are strongly recommended as this is an alpine setting with occasional loose rock and tree branches.
Approach shoes for descent optional