Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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53.89100°N / 166.92300°E |
Route Type:
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Basic Snow/Glacier Climb |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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Slog |
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Approach
From Dutch Harbor jump on a boat and get dropped of at Broad Bay. Bring some waders incase you can't get right on the beach. From the beach the valley goes strait for about 6miles right to the base of the mountain. There is little to no elevation gain, however the vegetation is thick and there are no trails. There are also a number of rivers and water estuaries that weave back and forth along the valley, so multiple river crossings are required, along with the valley floor turns into one big "wetland" from time to time.
Route Description
Start at the beach and hike up the valley. Once you get to the head of the valley there is an old military road that switchbacks up the pass. Take the road up and traverse across the plain towards "Cone Mountain" Once at cone mountain you can set up base camp or continue hiking to the snowfield to set up camp. From the top of the pass water is hard to come by, all the rivers are below in the valley, so melting snow or collecting from melt puddles is required. The winds up on this part of the mountain all the way to the summit can be extremely powerfull, and there isn't a lot of places to shelter from the elements so spend some time and pick a good spot.
From here you can either leave your tent and some gear and do a summit bid or if you packed light break camp and go for the top. Fallow the ridge to your right all the way across and up which puts you on the glacier. From there it is strait forward and just a little trudge to the top. be aware that there are crevases on the upper part of the mountain and visibility and the weather is notorious for deteriorating at a moments notice.
Essential Gear
Ice Axe, Crampons, Skiis or snowshoes
Miscellaneous Info
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