The Warrior, 5.11a

3rd Pitch- 120’- 5.10d/ We found this pitch to be the true crux of the route. It is much more sustained and physical than the 5.11 pitch above. Layback, jam and/or chimney up the flaring dihedral. The crack is in the C4 #3 range. We took four of that size and found that adequate although Handren’s guide references you could take more. We placed several larger and small pieces as well. The large hand size is going to be awkward for many and I found it easier to actually chimney much of the pitch, back against the dihedral, albeit it was quite strenuous with little to know features on either wall. In any regard, this pitch is the main reason that makes rapping the route versus carrying packs for the quicker canyon descent, more attractive. The climbing is tight any way you approach it. Locate a fixed station out right on the main wall.
The Warrior, 5.11a, 7 Pitches, Cactus Flower Tower, Red Rock, NV, October, 2011


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