Theater of Shadows

Page Type
Idaho, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
5.7 (bolted)

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Theater of Shadows
Created On: Aug 21, 2003
Last Edited On: Oct 20, 2004


The route is located on Jackson's Thumb formation in the relatively remote northeastern corner of the Reserve. From Bath Rock inside the City, drive east for c. 1.5 miles on the main park road or drive toward the City from Almo for about 3 miles on the main park road. Look for a signed side (narrow, dirt) road for North Fork Overlook Trailhead (left turn if heading from the City towards Almo). Take that road to its end approximately a mile from the turn off. Park and take the well beaten climbers' trail heading north towards the huge Stienfell's Dome and the relatively small Jackson's Thumb on its left. The approach is about 0.5 - 0.75 miles and passes under the slabby south face of Stienfells Dome before turning sharply left toward the base of Jackson's Thumb. Theater of Shadows route begins in the woody area on low angle slabs - look for a VERY well bolted line. Despite its relatively remote location within the Reserve, it is very popular (esp. with local climbers "in the know how" since it's featured in only 1 out of the 4 guidebooks) and long lines at the base are common.

Route Description

The route reaches the summit of Jackon's Thumb in four easy pitches. The route is very well bolted (some would say overly bolted!) and is an outstanding choice for a beginner 5.7 leader. The climbing is on low angle, well-featured slabs with the crux (half-way up pitch one) involving a move or two over overlapping slabs (again, very well protected by bolts). All belays are doubly bolted though not suitable for more than three climbers at a time. Once the bolt line is picked up at the base of the formation, route finding is a non-issue - no other bolted lines currently intersect the route.

Once you reach the fourth and final belay, traverse (belayed) right (climber's right) for about 20 feet and you'll see a bolted rap anchor. Rappel with double ropes (one double rope rap) into the gulley between Stienfells Dome and Jackson's thumb. Scramble down the gulley (class 3) to the base of the route.

Essential Gear

Quick draws and lots of them if planning on clipping every bolt (12 - 14 is probably not excessive) and some anchor material for the bolted belays. Two 60m ropes for descent (two 50m might be sufficient).

Miscellaneous Info

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