Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.03010°N / 119.3814°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.10b R |
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Approach
As described for the approach used to access the Tollhouse Traverse, take the decent trail to the base of Tollhouse Rock. Upon reaching the first open talus field, half way along the base of the rock, locate a bushy corner just 100 feet right of the Tollhouse Traverse. Duck under some brush to the base of the rock. The start of the route is next to a large left facing corner, heading up open slab to a right slanting ramp/crack. Additionally, this route is located just right of '38th Parallel' (as listed in the Sequoia Kings Canyon guidebook).
Route Description
Pitch #1: Start by heading up the slab toward two bolts (the moves past the second bolt is .10b). Once past the bolts, head up a right slanting crack/ramp that peters out just below a steep face. This crack is part of "38th Parallel" (5.9). At the end of the crack, head straight up and slightly right to a bolt (5.9). Head above this bolt, passing 6 more bolts to a two bolt belay (175').
Pitch #2: The second pitch (200') goes up and right, passing a small headwall with a bolt (15' from the belay). Continue straight up above the 1st bolt, passing 5 more along the way. Continue past the 6th bolt (5.9), which is located left of a small left facing corner. Once above this bolt, the route runs out for 60 feet on 5.7 terrain. The route runs into a left leaning ramp/crack (The Upper Traverse, 5.6). Climb the ramp (pro to "1) 30 feet to a single bolt. Set a belay here, using the crack for additional protection.
Pitch #3: The third pitch continues up the right facing corner following the ramp. The ramp then dead ends 50 feet above the belay. Where the ramp dead ends, make a move to the right over a small roof (5.6) . Head up and right for 50 more feet to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. From here, one can walk off to the left and then up, following 3rd and 4th terrain to the top.
Essential Gear
-Quickdraws
-Pro to "1 (Aliens helpful on the 1st pitch)
-60 meter rope
FA Info
This route is a new addition to Tollhouse Rock and provides more of a direct start to '38th Parallel' (5.9) on Pitch #1. This route was put up by Barry Chambers, Ken Rose, and Cam Donahoo in October 2003. Highly recommended!