Great climb. Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5.
Did it with a couple of good friends. P5 IS the best pitch I have ever been on so far. The whole climb was really awesome though. Would do it over and over again.
Did it on December 24th 2011 as a First (?) Winter Ascent with my friend Bryan. Was real cold. 16F when we left our car in the morning. But we were able to free it, with our numb extremities. Great time.
would be hard to design a more perfect climb- all the good of the sierra without the long approach. every pitch is 4 stars; the last is definitely 5. sustained, but with tons of rests. the variations are good- and in some sense might be easier to follow than the "real" route...
swapped leads with Vincent
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the "Regular Route" on Third Pillar in 1984. We thought it was one of the best alpine climbs we have done till then, anywhere. It helps that the route gets harder and harder as one climbs higher. Miguel just came back from doing the "NOSE" on El Capitan and felt the 5.9 pitch at the top, was just out of this world, aesthetically on a level with the Great Roof pitch on El Cap. Of course this was in the years, when 5.10 was respectable climbing. I read here that people just cruise it nowadays solo, wow...it was on this trip, that Miguel pointed out to me that we should try the Central Headwall one day (see One That Almost Got Away). I was so afraid of it, that it took us 7 years to try and do it. The Regular Route is another Eastern Sierra gem that should not be missed by anyone.
Made an early season low snow descent on snowboard to complete my first Sierroin Hat Trick: Climb ski snowboard. Sweet!
wow this was incredible.. climbed with tom grundy... topped out just in time for a
super crazy storm.. had to take cover from the lightening for a spell..
Stellar climb! Skied the chute in 2006, the climb and ski route are two of the best Sierra lines, all within view of lobster taquitos and gallons of beer!
Awesome route! Fun lead!
with Michal. Participated in a rescue when party above us suffered broken ankle. Lead P1, 3, 4, 5. This is a great route, not easy though.
One of the best ends to a climb I have ever done. Had to leave the nut my partner jammed in at the crux because it started snowing.
Great route, though somewhat chilly in October. The last pitch is amazing.
This was on of the best climbs I have done. Great hike in, clean rock, and every pitch has fun moves. I felt the hardest pitches were 2 and 5.
I did this before it started getting too popular and had an awesome climb wrapped up in a semi-wilderness experience. I love the hike in. The Dana Plateau is one of my very favorite places--just a big wide sweeping plain that makes you feel like you're someplace wild like Mongolia.
Kind of a grovelly start the way we went which relented to the often described awesome climbing higher up. The last pitch is as good as everyone says and, besides, how often do you get to finish a peak by mantelling onto the summit?
This route earns its stars. The climbing is varied but maintains consistent difficulty with a couple cruxy moves near the top.
On the approach, we spent about 2 hours checking out the menacing clouds south of Mono Lake and hovering over the Cathedral group. Finally we decided to go for it.
Just after I reached the top of the second pitch, we got hit by a brief hailstorm. But afterwards, the rock dried up and we had blue skies the rest of the day.
I wouldn't mind doing this route again.
too bad the last couple pitches don't go on for about 8 pitches
They do. It's called Positive Vibrations on the Hulk.
Climbed it with jlemay. Got spanked on the last pitch. Three other parties above us on Labor Day weekend 2007.
Decent climbing but the use of descriptors in some TR's & guidebooks such as "best 5.9 pitch" etc... seems excessive. OK climbing, pretty good views, good rock. Agree with Michael J that P5 was by far the crux (& I did not get it clean). I actually enjoyed P3 the best - go figure. Hike in/out sure is purty though.
When I started climbing 2.5 years ago, this was the route I wanted to get good enough to do. Made plans three times last season to give it a go, but something always got in the way. Finally, got on it with the Chief. He was nursing an injury, so I led pitches 1,2,4&5. The last two were the money--4 being a cruise and 5 the definite crux. A lot of work for two good pitches but a stellar partner, good weather, and not another soul on the hill made for a fine day.