Luke Swanson - Jul 24, 2015 1:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2014
Third pillar of dana
Great climb. Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5.
Vitaliy M. - Jul 18, 2011 2:37 am Date Climbed: Dec 24, 2011
Mindblowing
Did it with a couple of good friends. P5 IS the best pitch I have ever been on so far. The whole climb was really awesome though. Would do it over and over again.
TR:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2012/11/third-pillar-of-dana-first-winter.html
Did it on December 24th 2011 as a First (?) Winter Ascent with my friend Bryan. Was real cold. 16F when we left our car in the morning. But we were able to free it, with our numb extremities. Great time.
would be hard to design a more perfect climb- all the good of the sierra without the long approach. every pitch is 4 stars; the last is definitely 5. sustained, but with tons of rests. the variations are good- and in some sense might be easier to follow than the "real" route...
asmrz - Mar 4, 2010 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 1984
The Best
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the "Regular Route" on Third Pillar in 1984. We thought it was one of the best alpine climbs we have done till then, anywhere. It helps that the route gets harder and harder as one climbs higher. Miguel just came back from doing the "NOSE" on El Capitan and felt the 5.9 pitch at the top, was just out of this world, aesthetically on a level with the Great Roof pitch on El Cap. Of course this was in the years, when 5.10 was respectable climbing. I read here that people just cruise it nowadays solo, wow...it was on this trip, that Miguel pointed out to me that we should try the Central Headwall one day (see One That Almost Got Away). I was so afraid of it, that it took us 7 years to try and do it. The Regular Route is another Eastern Sierra gem that should not be missed by anyone.
granjero - Mar 3, 2010 9:03 pm Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2010
The Trifecta!
Made an early season low snow descent on snowboard to complete my first Sierroin Hat Trick: Climb ski snowboard. Sweet!
ripper333 - Jan 24, 2010 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2005
hell yeah
wow this was incredible.. climbed with tom grundy... topped out just in time for a
super crazy storm.. had to take cover from the lightening for a spell..
Stellar climb! Skied the chute in 2006, the climb and ski route are two of the best Sierra lines, all within view of lobster taquitos and gallons of beer!
LithiumMetalman - Aug 11, 2009 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
I did this before it started getting too popular and had an awesome climb wrapped up in a semi-wilderness experience. I love the hike in. The Dana Plateau is one of my very favorite places--just a big wide sweeping plain that makes you feel like you're someplace wild like Mongolia.
Kind of a grovelly start the way we went which relented to the often described awesome climbing higher up. The last pitch is as good as everyone says and, besides, how often do you get to finish a peak by mantelling onto the summit?
This route earns its stars. The climbing is varied but maintains consistent difficulty with a couple cruxy moves near the top.
On the approach, we spent about 2 hours checking out the menacing clouds south of Mono Lake and hovering over the Cathedral group. Finally we decided to go for it.
Just after I reached the top of the second pitch, we got hit by a brief hailstorm. But afterwards, the rock dried up and we had blue skies the rest of the day.
Decent climbing but the use of descriptors in some TR's & guidebooks such as "best 5.9 pitch" etc... seems excessive. OK climbing, pretty good views, good rock. Agree with Michael J that P5 was by far the crux (& I did not get it clean). I actually enjoyed P3 the best - go figure. Hike in/out sure is purty though.
MichaelJ - Jun 8, 2007 3:08 am Date Climbed: May 21, 2007
Finally
When I started climbing 2.5 years ago, this was the route I wanted to get good enough to do. Made plans three times last season to give it a go, but something always got in the way. Finally, got on it with the Chief. He was nursing an injury, so I led pitches 1,2,4&5. The last two were the money--4 being a cruise and 5 the definite crux. A lot of work for two good pitches but a stellar partner, good weather, and not another soul on the hill made for a fine day.
Luke Swanson - Jul 24, 2015 1:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2014
Third pillar of danaGreat climb. Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5.
Vitaliy M. - Jul 18, 2011 2:37 am Date Climbed: Dec 24, 2011
MindblowingDid it with a couple of good friends. P5 IS the best pitch I have ever been on so far. The whole climb was really awesome though. Would do it over and over again.
TR:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2012/11/third-pillar-of-dana-first-winter.html
Did it on December 24th 2011 as a First (?) Winter Ascent with my friend Bryan. Was real cold. 16F when we left our car in the morning. But we were able to free it, with our numb extremities. Great time.
zoomloco - Jul 16, 2011 6:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2011
quintessential sierra climbwould be hard to design a more perfect climb- all the good of the sierra without the long approach. every pitch is 4 stars; the last is definitely 5. sustained, but with tons of rests. the variations are good- and in some sense might be easier to follow than the "real" route...
fossana - Jul 20, 2010 4:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010
great routeswapped leads with Vincent
asmrz - Mar 4, 2010 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 1984
The BestMiguel Carmona and I climbed the "Regular Route" on Third Pillar in 1984. We thought it was one of the best alpine climbs we have done till then, anywhere. It helps that the route gets harder and harder as one climbs higher. Miguel just came back from doing the "NOSE" on El Capitan and felt the 5.9 pitch at the top, was just out of this world, aesthetically on a level with the Great Roof pitch on El Cap. Of course this was in the years, when 5.10 was respectable climbing. I read here that people just cruise it nowadays solo, wow...it was on this trip, that Miguel pointed out to me that we should try the Central Headwall one day (see One That Almost Got Away). I was so afraid of it, that it took us 7 years to try and do it. The Regular Route is another Eastern Sierra gem that should not be missed by anyone.
granjero - Mar 3, 2010 9:03 pm Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2010
The Trifecta!Made an early season low snow descent on snowboard to complete my first Sierroin Hat Trick: Climb ski snowboard. Sweet!
ripper333 - Jan 24, 2010 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2005
hell yeahwow this was incredible.. climbed with tom grundy... topped out just in time for a
super crazy storm.. had to take cover from the lightening for a spell..
granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2007
Umm, YEAH!Stellar climb! Skied the chute in 2006, the climb and ski route are two of the best Sierra lines, all within view of lobster taquitos and gallons of beer!
LithiumMetalman - Aug 11, 2009 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
Up!Awesome route! Fun lead!
kovarpa - Jul 21, 2009 4:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2009
this timewith Michal. Participated in a rescue when party above us suffered broken ankle. Lead P1, 3, 4, 5. This is a great route, not easy though.
sierrasclimber - Apr 7, 2009 10:13 pm
FollowedOne of the best ends to a climb I have ever done. Had to leave the nut my partner jammed in at the crux because it started snowing.
Rachel Stewart - Apr 2, 2009 9:29 pm
DanaGreat route, though somewhat chilly in October. The last pitch is amazing.
Eric L - Sep 23, 2008 5:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008
Cool climbThis was on of the best climbs I have done. Great hike in, clean rock, and every pitch has fun moves. I felt the hardest pitches were 2 and 5.
fatdad - Aug 26, 2008 5:12 pm
Third Pillar: Too Long Ago to Remember ((1992?)I did this before it started getting too popular and had an awesome climb wrapped up in a semi-wilderness experience. I love the hike in. The Dana Plateau is one of my very favorite places--just a big wide sweeping plain that makes you feel like you're someplace wild like Mongolia.
Kind of a grovelly start the way we went which relented to the often described awesome climbing higher up. The last pitch is as good as everyone says and, besides, how often do you get to finish a peak by mantelling onto the summit?
atavist - Jul 21, 2008 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008
3PDThis route earns its stars. The climbing is varied but maintains consistent difficulty with a couple cruxy moves near the top.
On the approach, we spent about 2 hours checking out the menacing clouds south of Mono Lake and hovering over the Cathedral group. Finally we decided to go for it.
Just after I reached the top of the second pitch, we got hit by a brief hailstorm. But afterwards, the rock dried up and we had blue skies the rest of the day.
I wouldn't mind doing this route again.
gremlin - Oct 28, 2007 11:00 pm
cool settingtoo bad the last couple pitches don't go on for about 8 pitches
MichaelJ - Feb 16, 2010 1:38 am
Re: cool settingThey do. It's called Positive Vibrations on the Hulk.
forjan - Sep 4, 2007 1:29 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007
3rd PillarClimbed it with jlemay. Got spanked on the last pitch. Three other parties above us on Labor Day weekend 2007.
rpc - Jul 5, 2007 4:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007
Nice enough.Decent climbing but the use of descriptors in some TR's & guidebooks such as "best 5.9 pitch" etc... seems excessive. OK climbing, pretty good views, good rock. Agree with Michael J that P5 was by far the crux (& I did not get it clean). I actually enjoyed P3 the best - go figure. Hike in/out sure is purty though.
MichaelJ - Jun 8, 2007 3:08 am Date Climbed: May 21, 2007
FinallyWhen I started climbing 2.5 years ago, this was the route I wanted to get good enough to do. Made plans three times last season to give it a go, but something always got in the way. Finally, got on it with the Chief. He was nursing an injury, so I led pitches 1,2,4&5. The last two were the money--4 being a cruise and 5 the definite crux. A lot of work for two good pitches but a stellar partner, good weather, and not another soul on the hill made for a fine day.