This Pussy Eats You

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Traditional Rock Climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.10b

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Dec 4, 2003
Last Edited On: Dec 4, 2003

Approach


When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairne that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall on the left side appears. This is Tiger Cage. Continue uphill 100 yards further and locate a single crack, that eventually splits into two parallel crack 20 feet above the base. This is the start of 'This Pussy Eats You'.

Route Description


The route is fairly straight forward. Simply ascend the crack (the direct boulder start is rated 5.10b) to where the crack splits into a "Y" shape which creates two parallel cracks (thus the routes' namesake!). Twenty feet above the split, make a short traverse to the left on a small horizontal crack. The two cracks can be stemmed and jammed (5.9) to the top of the climb. Or the left most crack can be jammed (.10a) to make the route more challenging. There are two anchor bolts at the top of the climb. Pro to 2". The upper section requires smaller gear (3/8" to 3/4")

Essential Gear


+ Single 50 meter rope
+ A few slings for directionals
+ Pro to 2" (#1 Metolious TCU and several medium pieces... nuts work well too!)

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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