Brandon, our guide from Timberline led us up this one
#1 05-16-2019 With Brandon (guide) from TMG and Yadahzoemtn. Still much snow, most of it consolidated. After 20 minutes the PCT was completely untraceable. 6+26 up. Two pitches in particular required protection. Never had to use crampons or ice ax. Overcast the entire day, visibility up and down. Small hail mixed with graupel made the descent shall we say interesting. The rock was more solid than one would think but assuming anything was solid without testing it would be asking for BIG trouble.
A group of Obsidians climbed this day, starting from the PCT trailhead at Hwy 20. The pros set fixed lines for the crawl, the chimney and the summit traverse. Beautiful day, lots of fun.
Climbed this in July with the Santiam Alpine Club and can understand why some don't like to climb this mountain. Group of six. It seems like the whole thing is falling apart. We placed traverse ropes on three sections (including the crawl) plus belayed the summit climb. From when we started placing ropes to summit and back took roughly 4 hours without another living soul in sight. Most of the hiking/climbing in those 4 hours was very exposed.
I can't imagine climbing this on a popular day... three is a crowd on the summit and I wouldn't want to have to go around anybody from the climb up the summit block onwards. The summit was generally a very uncomfortable place, with loose rock, massive exposure, and swarming hordes of insects to deal with. I did my best to not react when they crawled near my eyes/mouth because sudden movement could have severe consequences up there. Was never more glad to get off a summit.
Definitely a unique and exhilarating climb; very glad I climbed it with someone who has been up there before.
Major northwest peak 3/18
South Ridge Route. Class 5 (YDS 5.1)
I climbed with Jon and Lorraine. A Santiam Alpine Club climb. Led by Nathan and assisted by Adrian. 12 in the party split into two climbing teams.
Fog and rain all day but still a very fun climb!
Climbed with my friend Jason, who soloed the crawl and the final chute and belayed me on those sections. We only had a 30 foot rope so down climbed using the rope and a couple of slings for protection. Very exposed but easy climbing.We were pleasantly surprised how solid the holds were. Total round trip time was 7 hours, 20 minutes.
Nice hike on the trail but the loose sand going up to the summit area was so loose it was interesting. I solod the summit pitch while Jayme waited just below. I then rappelled down. Man that is one small and exposed place!
The weather was foggy, but the predictions were low winds and no new snow accumulation. We car camped in the parking lot right off of OR-126. The morning of our climb was overcast with low-hanging fog that kept us from ever seeing the peak, but we via snowshoes for several hours along the PCT before deciding to bag it and head home to warm up and grab a beer.
Super grateful we roped up for "the crawl" and the summit pinnacle!
Went solo with gear hoping for group up top. Lucked out they let me rap their rope. Foot hold broke one move from top. Super Sketchy.
came up from the PCT made it to the slight overhang, roped up on the traverse for safety, made it to the wall right after a mazama group. We waited for their ascent then made our ascent. Windy up at the pinnacle but sunny, lots of bugs, group of about 5 of us
Easy PCT approach, steep but short slof to ridge and then fun traverse. I thought the hype about loose rock was overdone. We watched a big group of Mazamas rope climb almost every part even the class 3 stuff before the Crawl. They were cool though and let us solo through. Rope was only needed for a short rap off summit. We brought the 30m. The scree decent was epically fast! Great sunny weather.
Freak show choss. The insect hatch/swarm on the summit was freakish too. From the summit could see the Bridge Complex fire bloom out.
I marked it as successful because the main body of my group summited the mountain.
We walked in the night before to do an overnight at the base of 3FJ. I was hoping to camp on the shelf right above the PCT, too much snow so we ended up camping right on the trail. Still a nice night.
In the morning we started up the hill, I soon realized that I wasn't up for the climb today. After handing off what climb gear I was carrying , the rest of my climber's headed up. Everything went fine till the top. Other groups were taking a long time to get across. Finally at the Chimney, Andee and Katya free climbed up. Larry and Gene used prusiks. They all had a grand time as the day was just perfect.
A late report for sure,
My first time up TFJ was I made it to the Crawl and stopped there. I had went by myself, I had gotten to the trail head early so thought I might walk in and try out those space blankets since it was so warm out. first mistake was to dig out the nice warm sand besides a large rock. By about 4 am I was getting cold. I'm a restless sleeper and had punched some good sized holes in my space blanket bag.
Next attempt. We had a very foggy day, I was the only one who had been on this mountain before so was leading the way. Very cool to see it all from this perspective. the last time was a perfect sunshine day.
We roped up across the Crawl and Top roped the Summit. By this time it was getting pretty darn cold and windy. One the way back, one of us had a very hard time with the exposure. I was beginning to think we were going to have a hard time getting back down but we eventually got down to safety. Perhaps the fog helped us, they really had no idea of the exposure on this mountain, you could only see about a hundred feet or so.
I've done the standard climbs on most all of the Oregon Cascade mountains, none are as exposed as this one I believe.
Left car at 7, returned at 7. Got off route to north on way up. Don't recommend those sketchy talus slopes. Gonna say it; crawl wasn't as scary as I've heard. David's first time with 'real' roped climbing. It was an excellent day hike.
Yeah, the crawl is pretty exposed, as is a lot of the ridge. The final chimney not so much. Nice summit.
Without a doubt the most exposed bit of climbing I have experienced here in Oregon. The catwalk bit reminded me of Broken Top, and the crawl didn't look too bad initially. However you're really hanging it all out there that last 15 feet of the crawl. I was happy we took the time to set a fixed line. The last 20 feet on the summit block was also more exposure than I initially expected. Anyway, happy to have this one completed here in my 7th full year of hiking and climbing.
Easy but loose... worst I've seen yet in Oregon, land of choss piles.
Holy crap that was awesome! It wasn't too technical but every step had wild possibilities of plummeting to your death. It was great. The crawl wasn't bad and the chimney was cake. We had perfect weather and sat on top ogling the Cascade line. Definitely one of my favorites yet.