Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.37350°N / 121.6956°W |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Winter |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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WI4+ M5X |
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Number of Pitches:
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6 |
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Grade:
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IV |
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Overview
A beautiful plumb line up the steepest part of the Black Spider. The pro is not as good as the scenery though.
Getting There
Starts just left of the toe in the center of the Black Spider headwall. First pitch is the icicle between the Elder-Russel and the Fric-Amos
Route Description
P1 - Mixed / Ice Pillar - First crux comes a few feet off the deck with a fragile detached pillar and some finicky mixed moves. Belay from top of steep snow field after icicle. M3 WI4+ P2 - If the ice directly above connects, go straight up. We went right through steep unconsolidated snow to a distinct vertical mud chimney. First pro will likely come above this chimney (approx 80 ft from anchor) but the climbing is manageable. The mud takes good sticks. Rope stretcher...be ready to simul. Belay where you can. M4/5 X P3 - Traverse left until you see a distinct small chimney with a nice WI3- flow. Belay at the base to reduce rope drag. WI3- M3 P4 - Climb the ice in the excellent and fun chimney. Veer right at the top and belay off pickets or hopes and dreams. P5 - Go right and around the corner, then straight up when you can to the spine at the base of a spire on your left. Belay here (terrain belay or pickets). P6 - Steep snow to the summit ridge
Essential Gear
Pins, Screws, Pickets, Cams, Specters
External Links
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