2-day trip with guide Kurt Wedberg from SMI. Even though Kurt made it look easy I didn't attempt the summit block. Maybe next time.
A LOT of snow in Dusy Basin still and all the way up the SW Chute. Went in approach shoes w/ no axe or crampons, had to stick to the moat on the side of the couloir. Wandered too far left and topped out near the north (smaller) summit. Dicked around trying to get on top of it for a while until we realized it was the wrong one. We were attempting the traverse so instead of wasting more time once we got to the real summit trying to lasso the block, we headed on.
Still a lot of frozen snow below the chokestone but doable without gear. Didn't attempt the summit block but someday I'll be back. Descended the Class 4 chute on the SE side to the saddle- fun.
With Rob from Knapsack Pass camp. He lead the summit pitch.
Climbing above the notch is awesome. Lassoed the summit block and climbed the rope.
Ascended the right hand Underhill couloir with SMG. Bergschrund was passable by end running it - a few more cracks present around it too. The slope angle in the couloir was up to 50 or so degrees in places. We passed the chockstone on the left with an awkward move. A pitch of rock at the end of couloir puts you on the summit ridge, where 3rd class and exposed 4th/low 5th climbing leads you to a short, easy but exposed traverse to the base of the summit block. Thanks to Darren and Alex for the leads. Lassoed and free-climbed the summit block - a lot of fun (a short bouldering problem, essentially)!
Beautiful day traversing from T-bolt to Polemonium and then down the U-Notch. Almost ripped a crimp flake off the summit block, that made it more than a little spicy.
Via Underhill Couloir route with SMG. Thanks George for leading the summit block!
With Alvin W and Oleg R from campsite on tbolt pass.
I think the class 4 section is really a stiff Class 3. We prussiked the summit block. If this is a new method, would it be considered a first accent? :-)
quite a bit easier than hype about this traverse lets on. summit block is really only 5.6 or 5.7, albeit exposed. the rest of the traverse is quite a bit easier and best done unroped if you're comfortable
Started our (short) traverse from Thunderbolt Pass. I Skipped the summit block to save time, though we did put up a top-rope which several other parties used : ]
with Mark via NW ridge. Climbed mt. Robinson day before. My first time in Palisades.
Cold climb with the Caltech Alpine Club. 8 Climbers on top after lassoing the summit block and top-roping. Awesome!
climbed with members of Caltech Alpine Club.
Got hosed on the approach and up into a gully off route. We we're at nearly 13,000 and working the rope, but reached blank wall.
Climbed via the Southwest Chute.
Aaron lasso'd the summit block quickly and we aided up, climbed the summit block via the Bob Burd method with the figure 8s on a bite. I will have to go back to lead it. :-)
We had some route finding issues and accidentally climbed the lightning rod. Desended via Underhill Couloir; lots of rappel slings already in place. Rappeled off a snow bollard over the bergshrund the base of Underhill due to not having crampons on the steep slopes.
We had ambitions to complete the traverse as a secondary objective but the route finding issues set us back.
Part of Palisade traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium. Completed summit block-impressive chunk of granite
Fitting this would be my 50th peak. A wild climb near the top. Can't think of a better summit block. Peter Croft and Conrad Anker signed the register a few days prior.
Tagged the summit on our way towards completing the Palisade Traverse... We weren't as lucky on the Traverse.
Sick climb. Left from the South Lake TH around 8:30 am with heavy packs and made it to Tbolt Pass by 3 PM. Ben and I then booked it up the SW Chute which was a route that I can't quite recommend, but it got us to the summit block in a quick 1 hour 4 mins. I freed the summit block as did Ben. Left the summit around 6 or so and descended back down the Chute to Barrett Lake where our friends were waiting for us at camp. Stumbled into the tent at dusk and passed out. Great outing.