Till Broad Daylight is nice easy 5.9 slab climb located in the Great Arch area at Three O'Clock Rock. The route is listed as 6 pitches in the topo, but some of the pitches are very short. The route can easily be done in 4 pitches as decribed below.
The highlight of this route is the second pitch (second half of 1st described below). This is a very nice and continuous steep 5.8 slab with small knobs and 2 fun overlaps to pull.
This climb is well protected and is an excellent introduction to leading a multipitch 5.9 slab route.
Follow the approach as mentioned on the main page. From the boulderfield where the Eightmile Creek Trail breaks out into a clearing, take the climber's path towards the great arch area. After a couple of minutes you come to a T, turn left here. Follow the path up until at the base of the rock.
Till Broad Daylight starts directly under the right edge of the Great Arch above, just left of a right facing dihedral.
Route DescriptionPitch #1
- 5.8 - Climb up the easy slab clipping 2 bolts until you arrive at the double bolts. Keep going here, at that "pitch" is way to short. Work up to the top of the overlap then climb the classic steep knobby slab passing another overlap about half way up. 130 feet
- 5.7 - Lieback the nice left facing flake system, then move up and to your left passing the first set of anchors. Pass the overlap on the left, then at the second bolt traverse accross directly to your left to reach the anchors. 100 feet
- 5.9 - Climb straight up the steep knobby slab with good protection towards the overlap above. Just under the overlap traverse off to the left to reach the anchor. 140 feet
- 5.8 - Continue up and to your left on the nice more sustained 5.8 slab to reach the final set of chains. 90 feet
- Rap the Tidbits route, directly below you in 3 double rope rappels, then scramble back to your packs.
1 set of cams from .5 to 2 inches
2 50 or 60 meter ropes
10 draws or slings
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