Tinita Chute/Northeast Ridge

Overview

The Tinita Chute (unofficial name) and the Northeast Ridge (Traverse The Citadel to Pettingell) offer a great combination - a fun snow climb and a challenging rock climb on a mountain, which sees incredible few climbers for being that close to Denver.



If you don't like snow climbs

The Northeast Ridge can easily be gained from the gulch right below Snoppy's Backside Chute - Tinita Chute is fun, but it is not the obligatory route to gain access to the ridge

Getting There

Start at Herman's Gulch Trail or hike up Dry Gulch and climb over the Dry/Herman saddle

Route Description

Approach is identical to Snoopy's Backside Chute/Snoopy's Sister. Follow the Herman Gulch trail for approximately 3 miles. After the initial switchbacks up from the interstate, the paths levels out for a longer while (with shorter ups and downs in between).

After crossing two side creeks, one right after the other(the first one on two long wooden boards)the path becomes considerably steeper. Leave the path from here to your left and start bushwacking in direction of the rockface of The Citadel. Several faint animal and climber trails are heading in this direction; scrubb is not too dense.

Continue upward to the very top of the Gulch beneath the Citadel's NE face.
Climb up the wide snow couloir of Snoopy's Backside Chute until you reach the almost level midpart of this chute. To the right the very narrow ravine of the Tinita Chute winds its way up to the Northeast Ridge. Identify the ravine from farer below, makes it easier to find it when standing at this spot as you will see several other ravines which do not give access to the ridge.

The chute is very narrow. Lots of rockfall. There is a Y in the ravines's most upper part. The left fork requires a class 3 rock climb up to the ridge. The right fork (not climbed by myself)looks also like a class 3 climb.

Up at the ridge you are confronted by the 200 feet high summitblock.

The crack (almost black rock) to the right of the rock cliff offers the best option to climb the block without a rope. It requires 40-50 feet of almost vertical and very exposed climbing (look at the picture above). Do not climb if the rock is wet! Climbing down this rock face requires for most people a rapel.

This challenge is followed by a fun class 3 climb along the ridge to the West Summit of The Citadel.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe and helmet are absolutely essential for this climb. Lots of lose rock in the chute

External Links

http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2003/1185.html

Description of a (tedious) way to circumvent the summit block to the right

Images

View Tinita Chute/Northeast Ridge Image Gallery - 12 Images