Tiny Town, 5.8-5.10b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Idaho, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
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Tiny Town, 5.8-5.10b
Created On: Oct 12, 2015
Last Edited On: Oct 12, 2015

Overview/Approach

Photo above is Tiny Town Pillar, 5.10a***

Tiny Town offers the quickest access, of all features, to climbing from the main trail head at Castle Rock State Park. What it also offers is well shaded climbing during hot days as all of its routes are north facing. The most unique of which would be Tiny Town Pillar located at the far right side when facing the north side. This feature truly is a pillar, detached from the main formation. What is unique about it is that it is a trad climb utilizing mostly horizontal placements making it a good objective to teach that sort of leading and cam placement. The climbing is on nicely plated patina up a short steep face. The last move to the summit is the crux and offers cool movement. You can scramble down the south side and cut back through the eastern notch.

From the main Castle Rocks trail head, follow the marked trails due north out of the parking area and turn east for the first feature on your right. Tiny Town is isolated as one feature/wall located out in open meadows whereas most of the features at Castle Rocks are bunched together. The pillar route is obvious on the right side. It is all north facing.

Route Description(s)

North Face
Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
  • Short Sport- 5.10a**/

  • Brown Eyed Girl- 5.10b*/

  • Tiny Town Pillar-5.10a***/Offers some pretty cool climbing, albeit short. Start under the north face and climb the vertical seem with horizontal dikes. Atop of that are horizontal cracks. Make a bold finish above those. Scramble down the south side with the rope and counter-balance belay. The climbing is nice and vertical. Pro placements are thoughtful. Trad, Walk Off (more like scramble down) Dow
  • Ray of Heaven- 5.8*/

  • Six Feet Over- 5.10a*/