Fun and short route done in perfect weather and perfect snow conditions. 4.5hrs up from our camp in the moraine. I would rate it PD+/AD- but certainly not D.
Less than 24hrs from trailhead to summit.
The hardest part of the route was gaining the NW-ridge from the glacier, which we did at around 5500-5600m or so. To get over a bergschrund blocking the way, a short, 5 to 10m, bit of 70-degrees snow climbing was required. Shortly thereafter was a much longer section of 50 to 60 degrees (two pitches required).
Finally, just before the summit ridge was another section of two pitches up to 60 degrees.
Fortunately, the snow was strong and in excellent condition, and climbing was pure fun! In this condition, I would rate the route AD, or AD+, but no D.
However, the very next day, there was a fresh bit of snow, so the route condition may be a bit different now ...
By the way, we camped at around 5200m on the glacier. In fact, there are many places to camp on the glacier at various altitudes before going on the ridge, and even some on the wide ridge itself. In fact, there was even a very nice and sheltered site on the summit ridge, above the final difficulties, only minutes from the summit!
Silvia Mazzani - May 13, 2011 10:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002
North West Ridge
My first 6000, a fantastic route with a short technical pitch in upper part. For me a great satisfaction!
Long but incredible day - morraine camp to summit and back to base camp. All the info we had on this route was indicating a moderate climb. Well, moderate my butt .... I don't think there are any moderate (AD and below) routes on any CB 6K peaks this year..
Gido - Jul 13, 2010 7:06 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2010
West face
After an unwanted shot of adrenaline, I dangled in the bergshrund, me and Pablo Puruncajas (ECU)summitted in perfect weather. Spectacular and steep face, the sting proved to be in Tocclaraju's tale with a nasty crevasse at the summit mushroom requiring great alertness.
MRoyer4 - Mar 26, 2010 10:34 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008
NW Ridge
Climbed with Dan...it's a long ridge climb except for the last bit which requires some belayed climbing.
Good climb up the NW ridge, just short of the bergschrund were able to look to the east and see the sun rise and then look to the west and see the moon set. Just past the bergschrund conditions deteriorated quickly and were unable to get a purchase in the snow. Great climb either way.
dwalters1 - Oct 20, 2009 1:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
NW ridge
Heavy snow the two days prior to our attempt stopped us around 3 hours from the summit. Bummer, probably should have waitied another day for some guided teams to break the trail.
Also, wouldn't waste my time setting up at moraine camp. I would opt to setup higher up on the glacier.
Climbed the west ridge with Tyler Appetito & Kaveh Kashani. Lots of snow, no tracks or other climbers. Tyler fell into a crevasse 2 times on the descend & weather got bad. Great climb!
oliverkalt - Aug 7, 2009 2:23 am Date Climbed: May 29, 2001
Normal route
I never felt worse after catching a massive stomach flu on the layover day in Huaraz. Made it but did not enjoy it. Thanks to my friends! I would never have kept going on my own.
Reached the summit led by the guide in training (Aspirante Guia) Marco Pompeyo and with his brother Heimer (porter). Heimer asked me the night before whether he could join us as he had never climbed a 6000m summit, to which I agreed. He was lightly equipped thus I gave him my down jacket for the cloudy night outing. We started from the (first) high camp (5000m) on a rocky ledge at 01:15 and summited at 07:15 via a normal route variation (D), following the beaten path, with limited visibility and wind gusts up to 30 km/h. We were followed by a Spanish party (from Estramadura) and descended all together. The three other parties behind us turned back at different stages.
Normally, "aspirantes" are not supposed to guide clients on 6000m summits but my UIAA membership meaning no obligation of hiring a mountain guide made the point again!
Climbed with Derek, Oscar, and Carlos - very windy and cold on the way up, but lots of fun! Moraine camp just below the glacier is on of the most beautiful places to camp I've ever been.
Ialewis - Jan 14, 2008 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
Normal Route
We slogged up the normal route from below moraine camp in a half a day. The top snow/ice pitch was fun, the rest was a slog. The most amusing part of our trip was my loosing my headlamp down a crevasse. The direct route looked more interesting, I wish we had done that…
ClimberMan420 - Dec 12, 2007 1:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007
west Face
Absolutly fantastic climb, rather long from high camp climbing face with group of 3, but quick and pretty esy descent.
gremlin - Oct 24, 2007 1:27 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
regular route
sketchy snow bridge, but other than that fun and not bad
laureljarndt - Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2005
Highest point
Just beautiful, camped in a slighly lower spot than high camp, with great sunset views. Ice walls were stepped in and fun.
tb00957 - Aug 10, 2012 5:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012
northwest ridgeFun climb. Snow was compact but not icy. Perfect.
Alberto Rampini - Mar 12, 2012 5:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002
North West RidgeA dream!
andret - Aug 13, 2011 8:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2011
NW Ridge AgainClimbed it again to give a previously sick member of our party a shot. Made it to the top, but it was socked in.
andret - Aug 13, 2011 8:49 am Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2011
NW RidgeBeautiful weather!
bighornmonkey - Jul 15, 2011 10:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2011
short summit dayFun and short route done in perfect weather and perfect snow conditions. 4.5hrs up from our camp in the moraine. I would rate it PD+/AD- but certainly not D.
Less than 24hrs from trailhead to summit.
rgg - Jul 2, 2011 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011
North west ridgeThe hardest part of the route was gaining the NW-ridge from the glacier, which we did at around 5500-5600m or so. To get over a bergschrund blocking the way, a short, 5 to 10m, bit of 70-degrees snow climbing was required. Shortly thereafter was a much longer section of 50 to 60 degrees (two pitches required).
Finally, just before the summit ridge was another section of two pitches up to 60 degrees.
Fortunately, the snow was strong and in excellent condition, and climbing was pure fun! In this condition, I would rate the route AD, or AD+, but no D.
However, the very next day, there was a fresh bit of snow, so the route condition may be a bit different now ...
By the way, we camped at around 5200m on the glacier. In fact, there are many places to camp on the glacier at various altitudes before going on the ridge, and even some on the wide ridge itself. In fact, there was even a very nice and sheltered site on the summit ridge, above the final difficulties, only minutes from the summit!
Silvia Mazzani - May 13, 2011 10:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002
North West RidgeMy first 6000, a fantastic route with a short technical pitch in upper part. For me a great satisfaction!
Bill562 - Jul 25, 2010 11:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2010
NW RidgeLong but incredible day - morraine camp to summit and back to base camp. All the info we had on this route was indicating a moderate climb. Well, moderate my butt .... I don't think there are any moderate (AD and below) routes on any CB 6K peaks this year..
Gido - Jul 13, 2010 7:06 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2010
West faceAfter an unwanted shot of adrenaline, I dangled in the bergshrund, me and Pablo Puruncajas (ECU)summitted in perfect weather. Spectacular and steep face, the sting proved to be in Tocclaraju's tale with a nasty crevasse at the summit mushroom requiring great alertness.
MRoyer4 - Mar 26, 2010 10:34 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008
NW RidgeClimbed with Dan...it's a long ridge climb except for the last bit which requires some belayed climbing.
dancla22 - Nov 11, 2009 7:39 am
So CloseGood climb up the NW ridge, just short of the bergschrund were able to look to the east and see the sun rise and then look to the west and see the moon set. Just past the bergschrund conditions deteriorated quickly and were unable to get a purchase in the snow. Great climb either way.
dwalters1 - Oct 20, 2009 1:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
NW ridgeHeavy snow the two days prior to our attempt stopped us around 3 hours from the summit. Bummer, probably should have waitied another day for some guided teams to break the trail.
Also, wouldn't waste my time setting up at moraine camp. I would opt to setup higher up on the glacier.
bledl - Sep 1, 2009 6:16 pm
west ridgeClimbed the west ridge with Tyler Appetito & Kaveh Kashani. Lots of snow, no tracks or other climbers. Tyler fell into a crevasse 2 times on the descend & weather got bad. Great climb!
oliverkalt - Aug 7, 2009 2:23 am Date Climbed: May 29, 2001
Normal routeI never felt worse after catching a massive stomach flu on the layover day in Huaraz. Made it but did not enjoy it. Thanks to my friends! I would never have kept going on my own.
Ario - Jul 7, 2009 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009
via Normal Route variationReached the summit led by the guide in training (Aspirante Guia) Marco Pompeyo and with his brother Heimer (porter). Heimer asked me the night before whether he could join us as he had never climbed a 6000m summit, to which I agreed. He was lightly equipped thus I gave him my down jacket for the cloudy night outing. We started from the (first) high camp (5000m) on a rocky ledge at 01:15 and summited at 07:15 via a normal route variation (D), following the beaten path, with limited visibility and wind gusts up to 30 km/h. We were followed by a Spanish party (from Estramadura) and descended all together. The three other parties behind us turned back at different stages.
Normally, "aspirantes" are not supposed to guide clients on 6000m summits but my UIAA membership meaning no obligation of hiring a mountain guide made the point again!
hhsilleck - Jul 22, 2008 6:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007
Route climbed: NW ridgeClimbed with Derek, Oscar, and Carlos - very windy and cold on the way up, but lots of fun! Moraine camp just below the glacier is on of the most beautiful places to camp I've ever been.
Ialewis - Jan 14, 2008 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
Normal RouteWe slogged up the normal route from below moraine camp in a half a day. The top snow/ice pitch was fun, the rest was a slog. The most amusing part of our trip was my loosing my headlamp down a crevasse. The direct route looked more interesting, I wish we had done that…
ClimberMan420 - Dec 12, 2007 1:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007
west FaceAbsolutly fantastic climb, rather long from high camp climbing face with group of 3, but quick and pretty esy descent.
gremlin - Oct 24, 2007 1:27 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
regular routesketchy snow bridge, but other than that fun and not bad
laureljarndt - Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2005
Highest pointJust beautiful, camped in a slighly lower spot than high camp, with great sunset views. Ice walls were stepped in and fun.