Tocllaraju Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 51
bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Jul 15, 2011 10:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2011

short summit day  Sucess!

Fun and short route done in perfect weather and perfect snow conditions. 4.5hrs up from our camp in the moraine. I would rate it PD+/AD- but certainly not D.
Less than 24hrs from trailhead to summit.

rgg

rgg - Jul 2, 2011 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011

North west ridge  Sucess!

The hardest part of the route was gaining the NW-ridge from the glacier, which we did at around 5500-5600m or so. To get over a bergschrund blocking the way, a short, 5 to 10m, bit of 70-degrees snow climbing was required. Shortly thereafter was a much longer section of 50 to 60 degrees (two pitches required).
Finally, just before the summit ridge was another section of two pitches up to 60 degrees.

Fortunately, the snow was strong and in excellent condition, and climbing was pure fun! In this condition, I would rate the route AD, or AD+, but no D.
However, the very next day, there was a fresh bit of snow, so the route condition may be a bit different now ...

By the way, we camped at around 5200m on the glacier. In fact, there are many places to camp on the glacier at various altitudes before going on the ridge, and even some on the wide ridge itself. In fact, there was even a very nice and sheltered site on the summit ridge, above the final difficulties, only minutes from the summit!

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - May 13, 2011 10:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002

North West Ridge  Sucess!

My first 6000, a fantastic route with a short technical pitch in upper part. For me a great satisfaction!

Bill562

Bill562 - Jul 25, 2010 11:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2010

NW Ridge  Sucess!

Long but incredible day - morraine camp to summit and back to base camp. All the info we had on this route was indicating a moderate climb. Well, moderate my butt .... I don't think there are any moderate (AD and below) routes on any CB 6K peaks this year..

Gido

Gido - Jul 13, 2010 7:06 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2010

West face  Sucess!

After an unwanted shot of adrenaline, I dangled in the bergshrund, me and Pablo Puruncajas (ECU)summitted in perfect weather. Spectacular and steep face, the sting proved to be in Tocclaraju's tale with a nasty crevasse at the summit mushroom requiring great alertness.

MRoyer4

MRoyer4 - Mar 26, 2010 10:34 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008

NW Ridge

Climbed with Dan...it's a long ridge climb except for the last bit which requires some belayed climbing.

dancla22

dancla22 - Nov 11, 2009 7:39 am

So Close

Good climb up the NW ridge, just short of the bergschrund were able to look to the east and see the sun rise and then look to the west and see the moon set. Just past the bergschrund conditions deteriorated quickly and were unable to get a purchase in the snow. Great climb either way.

dwalters1

dwalters1 - Oct 20, 2009 1:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007

NW ridge

Heavy snow the two days prior to our attempt stopped us around 3 hours from the summit. Bummer, probably should have waitied another day for some guided teams to break the trail.

Also, wouldn't waste my time setting up at moraine camp. I would opt to setup higher up on the glacier.

bledl

bledl - Sep 1, 2009 6:16 pm

west ridge   Sucess!

Climbed the west ridge with Tyler Appetito & Kaveh Kashani. Lots of snow, no tracks or other climbers. Tyler fell into a crevasse 2 times on the descend & weather got bad. Great climb!

oliverkalt

oliverkalt - Aug 7, 2009 2:23 am Date Climbed: May 29, 2001

Normal route  Sucess!

I never felt worse after catching a massive stomach flu on the layover day in Huaraz. Made it but did not enjoy it. Thanks to my friends! I would never have kept going on my own.

Ario

Ario - Jul 7, 2009 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009

via Normal Route variation  Sucess!

Reached the summit led by the guide in training (Aspirante Guia) Marco Pompeyo and with his brother Heimer (porter). Heimer asked me the night before whether he could join us as he had never climbed a 6000m summit, to which I agreed. He was lightly equipped thus I gave him my down jacket for the cloudy night outing. We started from the (first) high camp (5000m) on a rocky ledge at 01:15 and summited at 07:15 via a normal route variation (D), following the beaten path, with limited visibility and wind gusts up to 30 km/h. We were followed by a Spanish party (from Estramadura) and descended all together. The three other parties behind us turned back at different stages.
Normally, "aspirantes" are not supposed to guide clients on 6000m summits but my UIAA membership meaning no obligation of hiring a mountain guide made the point again!

hhsilleck

hhsilleck - Jul 22, 2008 6:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007

Route climbed: NW ridge  Sucess!

Climbed with Derek, Oscar, and Carlos - very windy and cold on the way up, but lots of fun! Moraine camp just below the glacier is on of the most beautiful places to camp I've ever been.

Ialewis

Ialewis - Jan 14, 2008 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

Normal Route  Sucess!

We slogged up the normal route from below moraine camp in a half a day. The top snow/ice pitch was fun, the rest was a slog. The most amusing part of our trip was my loosing my headlamp down a crevasse. The direct route looked more interesting, I wish we had done that…

ClimberMan420

ClimberMan420 - Dec 12, 2007 1:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007

west Face  Sucess!

Absolutly fantastic climb, rather long from high camp climbing face with group of 3, but quick and pretty esy descent.

gremlin

gremlin - Oct 24, 2007 1:27 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007

regular route  Sucess!

sketchy snow bridge, but other than that fun and not bad

laureljarndt

laureljarndt - Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2005

Highest point  Sucess!

Just beautiful, camped in a slighly lower spot than high camp, with great sunset views. Ice walls were stepped in and fun.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Jul 20, 2006 11:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2006

NW Ridge  Sucess!

Went up to high camp with Adam Jones hoping to climb the West Face, but opted for the NW Ridge due to very high winds on summit morning. It was a fairly long route with some interesting pitches, one being the summit pyramid and the other a 60m section along a rotten, icy cornice just after gaining the ridge. We spent a total of 5 days on the mountain.

Day 1...Hike from Pashpa (3600m) to Ishinca BC (4400m)...about 8 miles
Day 2...Move to High Camp (5100m) in 3.5 hours
Day 3...Storms and bad weather, waiting in High Camp
Day 4...Summit (6032m) in about 7 hours from High Camp, return to BC
Day 5...Hike out to Pashpa

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 9:31 pm

Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: june '05  Sucess!

Amazing climb!! Phenominal ice before the sun hits. Didn't actually summit. Got 7 piches up (all consistent WI4) and got very sick from the altitude and had to bail. Not hard to bail from the face as long as you know how to do v-threads.

Peak_Bagger

Peak_Bagger - Sep 9, 2005 4:37 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 25 2005  Sucess!

Nice climb!! Left at 2am and was on top by 8:30. The wait at the first wall can be tough. I got very cold, also watch out for local guides that climb over you and cross ropes. I got my pack stuck trying to climb up. Otherwise it was pretty smooth.

GlennMerrill

GlennMerrill - Aug 8, 2005 1:05 am

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2005  Sucess!

We started several hours after everyone else (last to leave high camp) so we didn't have to wait too long on the way up, but had to wait on the way down. Leaving late made it so the sun was up as we got high on the mountain so it wasn't really cold at all.

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