Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 1, 2006
Activities Activities: Hiking
Seasons Season: Summer

Longs and Meeker, via Keyhole, Clarks Arrow, Loft, Iron Gates

You can see all the pictures here: http://travelmannn.spaces.msn.com/PersonalSpace.aspx

Iron Gates via Keyhole, Longs, Clarks Arrow, Loft Meeker, and Ridge

The Players: Tony and wife Christy from Centennial, CO and Friend Steve from Longmont, CO

The Goal: Leave Longs Peak Trailhead and travel the Keyhole route to Longs Peak. Leave early enough to beat the crowds back down the HomeStretch. Exit left at the bottom of the HomeStretch and cross to the Loft via Clarks Arrow route, then summit Meeker and follow meekers ridge down and exit through the Iron Gates.

Readers Digest Version: Left Trailhead at 1:37a Summited Longs at 5:35a, Meeker at 8a, back at trailhead at 11:35a. Successful, great weather, no route finding issues. Created a very nice GPS Tracks file for anyone interested in following our “tracks.”

The Detailed Account:
Steve moved to Colorado at the end of 2005, and My wife (Christy) and I (Tony), moved out in February. So, this just means we didn’t fly in overnight from Florida and start the hike without any time to acclimatize.

The original plan was to go up the Loft, over to Meeker, back across the Loft to Clarks Arrow, HomeStretch, Longs Summit, and down via the Keyhole route. Using SummitPost.org I researched what other people did, and why, along with current route conditions. SummitPost was incredible. There were several trip reports which gave me pictures, descriptions, etc. of things that went well and also problems other people had.

For example it seemed that many people had trouble going from the Loft over to the HomeStretch without getting off track, but I had trouble finding trip reports where people had went from the HomeStretch to the Loft. So, I wasn’t sure if it was more difficult or exactly why that was.

After reading several accounts and posting several messages, we decided to take a slight variation to Ryan Schilling’s advice on our route of travel. We’d leave early, go up the Keyhole route, Summit Longs, come down the HomeStretch pass by Clarks Arrow, up to the Loft, Summit Meeker, and Continue down the knife ridge, out through the Iron Gates, and back to the Trailhead.

Chris Gerber gave us a great reply to our post about conditions. He did a similar route which included passing from the Loft to the HomeStretch just days before we were going to head out and let us know that we didn’t need an ice axe, crampons, or the like. That was a huge help, and comfort. Thanks again Chris!!

So, we were set with out route.

Schedule: Steve travels a little slower than Christy and I and decided to leave early to give himself extra time to on the way up. Christy and I were being very conscious of time as we were on a babysitter’s clock and didn’t want to spend any more time than necessary. However, we had time and did want to be successful and enjoy the day.

Steve lives in Longmont, a 40 minute drive from the Trailhead. Christy and I live in Centennial and have a 1:35 minute drive.

On Saturday morning 7/1/06 at 1:07am Steve left a FRS radio behind his front tire and headed off up the trail. At 1:37 I picked up the radio, signed in and took off up the trail. We talked back and forth on the radio for awhile and met up just as we entered the boulder field where Steve had stopped to pump water. We also brought a pump, not sure where we’d meet up with Steve. Our plan had been to carry a pump and a 16oz water bottle up to the Boulder field to avoid carrying extra water weight for the first 5 miles. Christy and I did stop and pump at the end of the first switch back headed up to the boulder field, then when we caught up with Steve we pumped our 16oz bottle and 2, 32oz bottles full to last until we got back down to Chasm lake. Steve used a hydropack. I like Hydropacks, but am a bit skidish about using them for long days when you won’t be around a water source. I’m always afraid that if it develops a leak you are without water and without a backup. Carrying multiple containers allows to have a backup supply.

It was still dark and as we crossed through the keyhole, still in the dark, you could just begin to see the sky beginning to show signs of lightening in the East. The bullseyes tell you where to go. Just pass through the keyhole and look up and left. The key to route finding this area in the dark, was to just take your time and find another bullseye before heading off up a ramp or down a ledge where it looked like lots of people had traveled. We were using little 3 diode light headlamps that don’t shine bright in the distance, so we probably lost some time in this part of the hike.

The Trip Reports which mention this section as exposed are correct, but unless there is ice, or some other outside factor the ledges are plenty big to easily walk on without fear falling off. In most places you could trip and you’d fall on the ledge, not 1000 feet to your death. The step around from the trough to the Ledges (I think that’s names of the location), is the only spot where someone without climbing experience might feel too exposed. There was still plenty of room and handholds, but I could see people getting nervous because it was a step up in exposure level as well as a smaller ledge to negotiate. However, still very easy in the grand scheme of things.

The last portion up to and including the HomeStretch was fairly steep, but it just takes time. The HomeStretch would probably be the most challenging for non-technical-climbing experienced folks, but it’s still easy looking at the big picture. Just take your time and look up planning your path of travel to the next bullseye. Pick the easiest route, sometimes switching back is easier than going straight up a slab, sometimes the slab looks more comfortable, but planning where you are headed while you are waiting for you breath to return will give you more confidence in your route of travel.

Christy and I arrived at the summit at 5:35a, just four hours from when we left the Trailhead. We found it challenging, but in the daylight we could have made better time. We were very happy with the ascent and at this point we were right on our estimated schedule.

At 6a we headed back down the HomeStretch and into what we feared the most. I had read many stories that almost all went something like, “we went to far down before coming back up..” We were afraid we’d do the same thing or worse yet, not find a good passage to the Loft.

It was actually VERY obvious, and I’ll try to explain how obvious. I also have in my possession a very nice GPS tracks file (.gpx file), that anyone could use to help negotiate the passage. There were cairns to follow in most places, but the short version of the route description is to stay right up against the palisaides (shear cliffs) and do not go any lower than you are forced to go. There are plenty of signs where people have been walking lower, but the higher you stay, the easier the path. We walked right by Clarks Arrow. It wasn’t easy to see until you go close, but if you keep looking for it you’ll see it. You do pass RIGHT next to the arrow. Literally you can reach out and touch it, so that is where you want to go. If you follow the trails farther down the mountain you will end up missing the arrow and having to climb up a loose gully that will not be fun. This should be more of a scramble than a hike on loose scree. There are times you are on some loose stuff, but we never found ourselves in a trough going up or down crazy loose gravel like scree. There were a couple of small descending areas where you had loose rock, but it was all big stuff and the sections were short.

So, at the bottom of the HomeStretch head left down some ledges staying close to the cliffs that go up toward the notch between Longs and the Loft. Easy statement, and if you are not familiar with the exact start and end of the HomeStretch, don’t feel alone, we weren’t sure either. However, the HomeStretch ends (in our opinion), where you begin moving right and begin sort of skirting around as you are coming down. Just keep looking left and also back up behind you. When you see that the bullseyes are no longer forming a straight line up to the top, then you are in the general area. You move left and down some easy ledges. Keep watching for cairns because they exist, and look for places where people have been before you.

Follow these ledges down and left, somewhat toward the notch and the farther you go, the more obvious the line will develop that takes you around the gully formed by the notch and then continues skirting downward up next to the cliffs on around in the direction of the the Loft.

Keep close to the cliff line and don’t give in to a line much farther down. I’m not sure what you call them, but there are these cliff walls that come straight out and down the side of the mountain and abruptly end with a tall cliff at their lowest point. Most of these you just skirt around then pass right below them on a scramble.

Clarks Arrow is after maybe the second one of these cliff walls. Seeing the arrow took more patience and persistence than anything. The easy path looked to be lower than where we were. However, we were staying right along the cliff line, but on an easy path, when Clarks arrow appeared a little above where we were. It almost looks like a white peace sign when you first see it. If you see it from much of a distance you’ll likely be above it, but we didn’t see it until we were closer and by then it was just above us.

An easy scramble up, right next to, and past the arrow, brings you to probably the most difficult and exposed move of the day. Still not super challenging, but if you do not have technical climbing experience, it might feel a bit worse than some other areas.

Now after passing the arrow, you’ll find yourself in a ‘gully’ (not what I pictured as a gully). This gully is really a scramble from here up. If you spot the arrow and make to here, you’ve avoided all the crazy up climbing people describe. In a few more scramble moves (keep your eyes open for the Cairns, as they tell you the easiest pathe, although there are several paths), you will be able to see the Loft and the obvious loose block traverse required to attain it and beyond.

From the Loft we traveled up one of the obvious trails leading up near the summit. The trail just disappears as you get into large boulderish type rock and at that point just look up and boulder hope to the summit ridge. We were at the first summit of Meeker by 7:30a and had taken pictures and were headed off down the knife ridge, by 8a.

Some first parts of the traverse toward the notch that leads to the Iron Gates were exposed, but most of the time there was an easy path if you took your time and looked around some.

The next section from where the knife ridge ends to the notch is a no brainer, but it will seem endless. We down stepped from large boulder to large loose boulder for what seemed like an eternity.

The notch is obvious and we actually stayed near the edge for the biggest part of the traverse just because the views of Longs were so incredible. Once you hit the notch you’ll find places where you continue boulder hoping and places where you can step and slide, step and slide until you get well below the Iron Gates. We stopped to grab a bite to eat here. The time was around 10a or a little after.

I’m not sure what the ‘best’ path of travel is, but as you come down if you head more toward where the Prowe meets Chasm lake you’ll likely hit trail quicker than traveling like we did, which was to stay farther right and actually have to come down another semi-steep boulder field before landing in the meadow below and near the Ranger’s Hut.

Once hiking again, we stopped near the rangers Hut and pumped enough water to supply us for the hike out. That hike out was uneventful and easy, arriving at the Trailhead at 11:35a.

It was a great day, a tiring hike, and a grueling descent, but leaving early we were the first on top of Longs for that day, and didn’t see a sole coming down the HomeStretch nor at any point until we got back down to Chasm Lake.

I wouldn’t set your time schedule based on ours, because we tend to move very fast compared to most, but you can use our ascent of Longs time to compare to your ascent time and use that as a basis for the amount of time you’ll expend to complete the rest of the journey.

GPS usage:
In all my posts p prior to heading off, I asked if anyone had a GPS tracks file, collection of waypoints, or a .gpx file available to use as an aid to our navigation. No one had a file (at least no one admitted to having a file), and in fact almost every reply came back stating that they don’t use a GPS. I’m not sure why people wouldn’t use (or admit to using) a GPS. They don’t weigh much and they can be incredibly helpful.

Now, I have a GPS file, so I can see exactly where I went, and anyone else could use the file to follow my foot steps, and hopefully save time if they are at all unsure about the correct path.

In Summary:
From the bottom looking up, the Loft looked very intimidating. Something to come down, not go up. Obviously people go up it, but I think the path we took, leaving early, was hands down the most efficient route.

What we liked about out Route of Travel:
- We left early and met few if any people on the Keyhole Trail
- By going on around to the Loft we didn’t deal with the crowd coming up the Keyhole route as we would’ve been descending.
- We were able to come up in the dark on the Keyhole Route because it is so well marked.
- We could see Clarks Arrow by heading from Longs toward the Loft.
- We were able to travel down the Loft or the Ridge and through the gates, as opposed to coming up one of them.

Please feel free to email any questions or comments to: travelmannn@gmail.com


GPS Track of the hike

Tony Balding
This is a simple map of our hike. I have the GPS tracks file if anyone else would like to utilize it to help in route finding.

Comments

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Chris

Chris - Jul 4, 2006 5:08 am - Voted 10/10

Sounds like a great day.

Sounds like you had a great trip and there were no problems with the route finding down Clark's Arrow... glad I could help out a little :-)

Thanks!
- Chris

bolojm

bolojm - Jul 4, 2006 12:19 pm - Voted 10/10

Great trip report!

Glad it all worked out...you made great time, too! I'm planning to go up Clarks Arrow next month and down the North Face.

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