Getting WAAAY 'Too Biased'!
This route is located on the North Face of Tahquitz, approx. 75 feet left of 'Hard Lark' (5.7) and 8-10 feet right of the Northeast Face (West) (5.6), on top of a ledge, in front of a large pine tree.
This route shares some of the original line called 'Toe Bias' (5.9R) and starts at the same location. Refer to the 3rd edition of the 'Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks' climbing guide put authored by Vogel and Gaines, published by FalconGuide Press.
The RoutePitch #1 (5.9)
- Start approx 8 feet right of the Northeast Face (West) route, near a large pine. Climb the slab to the small left facing flake system (small pro, mostly nuts). As the flake runs out, move out onto a seam that trends slightly left and up. The first bolt is encountered 12 feet up past the top of the flake system. A green Alien works nicely at the top of the flake before casting off onto the seam. Follow out onto an open slab, passing three other bolts along the way. After the last bolt, climb to the roof and traverse right a few feet to a dead tree, with an angle iron piton just left of its roots. Usually, there are slings connecting both the piton and the tree.
Pitch #2 (5.8)
- From the dead tree, head straight up to a short, shallow right facing corner (thin nuts or small cams). Near the top of this corner, the first bolt is encountered. Continue up and right, passing three more bolts along the way. The terrain offers up beautiful slab climbing on rounded small dishes and edges. After the 4th bolt, one will run into a left facing corner/crack that leads up to a roof. Just before reaching the roof, step out right and over to a small foot ledge, just below the start of a seam/crack. Belay here (good pro to 1/2")
Pitch #3 (5.8R)
- Head up a small crack (takes RP's, sizes #4 and below) for 30 feet before it turns into a seam. This seam opens up in a few spots (mainly on the first 1/3 of the route) but eventually closes up, making for some runout climbing 1/2 way and beyond. Continue up the seam until it "zig zag's" up and right to a left facing corner that slants up and left (good pro in the corner...up to 3/4"). Follow the corner to a jagged roof. There is a tree to the far left, near the roof. Traverse the roof to the left and down to the tree. Be sure to protect the second for this traverse. The second may have to down climb on lead to making it to the tree (slings with rap ring).
Rappel down the NE FAce (West) route. Can be rapped with a single 60m. The first rappel requires one to rap to the far left corner, with slings around a beefy bush. Rap off this to a pine tree (40 feet). From the pine tree, rap to the 1st pitch belay (dead tree and piton). One more rap to the corner of the NE Face, West, (slings wrapped around large horn/attached block), then a short rap to the base.
The Gear List
- Pro to 1", mostly small though (nuts, small TCU's and Aliens helpful)
- Quickdraws and slings with carabiners
- 60 meter rope
- Slings (in case slings have been removed from the trees)