ApproachIMPORTANT: Please see route description
Approach can only be done by boat, see link to contact the toronto alpine club section to arrange for pickup with the ACC dreadnaught. Driver will drop you off at base of the climb.
Climb up the slope to the first tree next to broken rock steps.
Route DescriptionNOTE: The broken rocks at the bottom of P1 have collapsed making this route inaccessible in it's current form. It's gone folks, sorry.
This route has a reputation as being the most sandbagged 5.3 in north america. Not a good choice for a first lead or first outdoor climb. (my 5.12 gymbie partner freaked out from exposure) Routefinding is not easy and exposure will be worse than expected. That said, it is the most thrilling 5.3 I've ever done by leaps and bounds.
P1) 25m 5.2 Up broken rocks towards the white quartzite patch directly above. Two bolts for anchor.
P2) 15m 5.3 Traverse to your right and step out to the nose, from the top of the nose downclimb a few feet to traverse to an obvious line to the right.
P3) 40m 5.3 Go up the slab and stop before the second tree. Go straight up on good holds over slightly overhanging rock to an incut ledge next to the top-out. Best part of climb.
Small nuts on your rack and big nuts in your sack
Camalots from #0.5 to #2, 60 m single or doubles.
2-4draws and 6-10 runners.
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