Torment-Forbidden traverse - snow/ice traverse

The second large saddle on the Torment-Forbidden traverse is on the right. Once again, the route passes the large tower on the north side. The angle of the snow and ice is reputed to be 50 degrees. We avoided much of the ice by dropping down, crossing a shallow gully, then climbing up and left to the next tower. Diagonally down and left from the third saddle a small crevasse is visible. Just above that crevasse there is a ledge system that provides access to the continuing traverse. We bivied at the top of the snow slope at far left (good bivy site, though it is snow. Last decent bivy on the route). August 25, 2006.


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