Torre Luisa

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
County:
Veneto
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation:
7966 ft / 2428 m
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Page By:
Torre Luisa
Created On: Oct 30, 2013
Last Edited On: Feb 15, 2018

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Cortina Dolomites > Torre Luisa

Torre Luisa 2428 m

An interesting group of towers typical of the Dolomites, showing a high quality dolomia, lies in the neighbourhood of Passo Giau 2236 m, a fine and panoramic road pass amongst the meadow. These peaks, belonging to the Averau-Nuvolau group, a group situated between Passo Falzarego and Passo Giau, are characterized by a quick approach from the pass. 

Unsettled morning over Cinque Torri and Tofana
Unsettled morning over Cinque Torri and Tofana


While the well known Monte Guséla is quite visible from Passo Giau, another nice rocky tower rising towards the sky with an amazing slender shape, lies on the right of Monte Gusela, hidden from the col, but quite visible from the road rising on the Northern side of the col.  It’s Torre Luisa showing to the East a beautiful grey and yellow face overlooking the path to Via Ferrata Nuvolau

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Torre Luisa with Cinque Torri and Tofana in the background
Torre Luisa with Cinque Torri and Tofana in the background

Getting There

Road access

The starting point is Passo Giau m. 2236, an awesome and panoramic col connecting Cortina d’Ampezzo with the territories of Vallata Agordina

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Cortina follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. After 3 km. leave the SS48 and turn to left (signpost Passo Giau) following the road to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina d'Ampezzo).

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 49 along Val Pusteria, getting to Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right the road SS51 entering Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo. Here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego and after 3 km. turn to left (signpost Passo Giau) following the road to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina).

Croda da Lago and Lastoni di Formin from the approach path
Croda da Lago and Lastoni di Formin from the approach path


Walking approach to Torre Luisa

From Passo Giau m. 2236 follow the path n. 443 to the North in direction of Gusela. Getting the first junction head to right walking on a level path (n. 443); at the second junction you can see the tower on your left hand side. Leave the path to Cinque Torri and turn to left, following the path to Ferrata del Nuvolau. At the third hairpin leave also this path and rise steeply on the scree towards the tower, getting soon the bottom of the wall. 40 minutes from Passo Giau.

Ghedina Route report

 

Via Ghedina on Torre Luisa topo

 

Via Ghedina on East face report – UIAA scale

Summit altitude: m. 2428
TD inf., UIAA V+.
Climbing length: 115 m., 4 pitches
Exposure: E
Equipment: trad pegs, fixed belays
First ascent: L. Ghedina – M. De Andrè – B. Alberti 1951
Starting point: Passo Giau m. 2236

Approach

From Passo Giau m. 2236 follow the path n. 443 to the North in direction of Gusela. Getting the first junction, head to right walking on a level path (n. 443); at the second junction you can see the tower on your left hand side. Leave the path to Cinque Torri and turn to left, following the path to Ferrata del Nuvolau. At the third hairpin leave also this path and rise steeply on the scree towards the tower, getting soon the bottom of the wall. 40 minutes from Passo Giau. The starting point of the route is marked by an ancient memorial, a bass-relief which marked in times past the boundaries between San Marco and Tyrol Counts territories.

Route report - UIAA scale

A short route with a quick approach, which can be suited for a half day climb, for a warm day or when the weather advises against climbing on longer routes. Anyhow it's a very nice and sustained route on excellent dolomia, quite satisfactory. The climb, running on a very steep wall, is sometimes athletic, especially on the first pitch.

San Marco Lion and Tyrol Counts bass-relief
San Marco Lion and Tyrol Counts bass-relief
Fine wall on Torre Luisa second pitch
Fine wall on Torre Luisa second pitch














L1
– A sustained pitch (crux) – The first meters are no protected. Climb straightly the steep beautiful wall, then traverse right getting a belay near a notch. V+, 40 m.
L2 – A few meters straightly over the stance, then a long ascending traverse to the left on the beautiful grey wall. V,
L3 – First meters slanting right, then back to left to enter a fine corner, ending below a big roof. Traverse right below the roof to the stance. V+, 25 m.
L4 – Slant to right, then climb directly to the top. IV, 25 m.

Descent: by an easy downclimb towards West (I, II, 30 meters), getting the path n. 438, then coming back on the approach path

Red Tape

Late spring nice bloom near Gusela
Late spring nice bloom below Gusela

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking

When to Climb

The face gets the sun early in the morning. Best season goes from June to October.

Where to stay

The little chapel on Passo Giau
The little chapel on Passo Giau

- Rifugio Passo Giau

Rifugio Passo Giau

Otherwise there are some huts on Passo Falzarego road

Nature at Passo Giau

Full bloom along the approach path
Full bloom along the approach path
Alpine flora along the approach path
Alpine flora along the approach path
On the approach path
On the approach path
Gentiana Punctata - Passo Giau, Eastern Dolomites
Gentiana Punctata - Passo Giau, Eastern Dolomites

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

Dolomiti Guidebook
Dolomiti Guidebook
Dolomiti Orientali Guidebook
Dolomiti Orientali Guidebook

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia

Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000