Torre Luisa

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Cortina Dolomites > Torre Luisa

Torre Luisa 2428 m

An interesting group of towers which summarize the typical characteristics of the Dolomites and show a high quality dolomia lies in the neighbourhood of Passo Giau 2236 m, a fine and panoramic road pass amongst the meadows. These peaks, belonging to the Averau-Nuvolau group, a group situated between Passo Falzarego and Passo Giau, are characterized by a quick approach from the pass. 

While the well known Monte Guséla is quite visible from Passo Giau, another nice rocky tower rising towards the sky with an amazing slender shape, lies on the right of Monte Gusela, hidden from the col, but quite visible from the road rising on the Northern side of the col.  It’s Torre Luisa showing to the East a beautiful grey and yellow face overlooking the path to Via Ferrata Nuvolau.

Getting There

Road access

The starting point to climb is Passo Giau m. 2236, an awesome and panoramic col connecting Cortina d’Ampezzo with the territories of the Vallata Agordina.

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Cortina follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. After 3 km. leave the SS48 and turn to left (signpost Passo Giau) following the road to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina d'Ampezzo).

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 49 along Val Pusteria, getting to Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right the road SS51 entering Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo. Here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego and after 3 km. turn to left (signpost Passo Giau) following the road to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina).

Via Ghedina report

Via Ghedina on East face report – UIAA scale

Summit altitude: m. 2428
Difficulty: TD inf., UIAA V+.
Climbing length: 115 m., 4 pitches
Exposure: E
Equipment: trad pegs, fixed belays
First ascent: L. Ghedina – M. De Andrè – B. Alberti 1951
Starting point: Passo Giau m. 2236

Approach

From Passo Giau m. 2236 follow the path n. 443 to the North in direction of Gusela. Getting the first junction, head to right walking on a level path (n. 443); at the second junction you can see the Torre Luisa on your left hand side. Leave the path to Cinque Torri and turn to left, following the approach path to the Ferrata del Nuvolau. At the third hairpin leave also this path and rise steeply on the scree towards the tower, getting soon the bottom of the wall. 40 minutes from Passo Giau. The starting point of the route is marked by an ancient memorial, a bass-relief which marked in times past the boundaries between San Marco and Tyrol Counts territories.

Route report - UIAA scale

A short route with a quick approach, which can be suited for a half day climb, for a warm day or when the weather advises against climbing on longer routes. Anyhow it's a very nice and sustained route on excellent dolomia, quite satisfactory. The climb, running on a very steep wall, is sometimes athletic, especially on the first pitch

L1 – A sustained pitch (crux) – The first meters are no protected. Climb straightly the steep beautiful wall, then traverse right getting a belay near a notch. V+, 40 m.

L2 – A few meters straightly over the stance, then a long ascending traverse to the left on the beautiful grey wall. V,

L3 – First meters slanting right, then back to left to enter a fine corner, ending below a big roof. Traverse right below the roof to the stance. V+, 25 m.

L4 – Slant to right, then climb directly to the top. IV, 25 m.

Descent: by an easy downclimb towards West (I, II, 30 meters), getting the path n. 438, then coming back on the approach path

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking

When to Climb

The face gets the sun early in the morning. Best season goes from June to October.

Where to stay

Rifugio Passo Giau

Alternatively you can opt for some huts along the Passo Falzarego road.

Nature at Passo Giau

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo
Dolomiti Meteo - Veneto

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia

Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000