This is an excellent moderate route. Quite justifiably one of the most popular routes in the Cinque Torre. It is not unusual to have to stand in line to get started.
Once in the CinqueTorri area, there are trails
all over leading to the various towers.
Line of Route
Start at the center of the north face.
Pitch 1: 30 m. Climb up L to an obvious niche (III). Leave this on the R and go up to the edge (IV) then back R to a belay stance on the R edge.
Pitch 2: 30m Go diagonally R to the other edge and up this few M (III).
Pitch 3: 20m Traverse L onto the east face (III) and then directly back to the ridge (III+).
Pitch 4: 25m: traverse a little R, obliquely right to the NW ridge (III). Climb the ridge for 6m (IV) then back L(III) to a stance on the edge.
Pitch 5: 30m. Climb up the ridge for 3m, then traverse L to a crack (III) which leads to a ledge. Go L on the ledge, then direct to the summit.
|Climbing on the Face |
|Climbing on the Face
Either descend to the west by a little chimney for a few m to reach a ledge with cemented pegs. From there it is a 40 m rappel to the base. If you only have one 50 m rope, you can also rappel the ascent route, but this is not recommended because of the number of people normally ascending (You would be somewhat unpopular). 4 rappels of 20m, using the fixed pegs.
Most protection and the belay stances are fixed. 5 quickdraws, a small rack, rappeling gear and a 50 m rope should be adequate for the ascent. However, if planning to do the 40 m rappel you will need to be prepared....