Torre Pian dei Buoi is a fine tower situated in the South-Eastern sector of the wild and secluded Marmarole Goup, Subgroup Ciastelin, Dolomites, between Torre Artù on the left and Torre S. Lorenzo on the right, and overlooking the lovely spot named Pian dei Buoi, a wide grassy and bucolic plane. In the opinion of Wolf (“I Monti Pallidi”, “Pale Mountains”) the name Marmarole could mean – as Marmolada – “splendour”. On the South face of Torre Pian dei Buoi we can climb is situated a very nice route on good “dolomia”; from the summit the climber can enjoy a panoramic view over Northern Dolomites – Lavaredo, Croda dei Toni and Popera groups - truthfully awesome.
The approach to Torre Pian dei Buoi rising directly from Pian dei Buoi parking requests 45 minutes by walking. Otherwise it’s possible to spend the night at Ciareido Hut m. 1969, situated on a grassy hill just in front of the peak (15 minutes by walking from the parking).
Road access to Torre Pian dei Buoi
From Belluno follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve follow on the right the road SS51 bis towards Auronzo di Cadore, reaching the small village of Lozzo di Cadore m. 756. Here you must leave the main road and follow on the left-hand side a narrow road rising to Pian dei Buoi, a wide grassy plane situated in South-East side of Marmarole Group.
Via Dal Negro report
Summit altitude: m. 2358
Difficulty: D inf., max V UIAA
Climbing length: 175 m.
First ascent: R. Dal Negro summer 1982
Starting point: Pian dei Buoi, Rifugio Ciareido m. 1969
From Pian dei Buoi a gravel track rises to the Rifugio Ciareido m. 1969; a few minutes before getting to the hut follow on the right-hand side the path towards Auronzo di Cadore, leading in 5 minutes by walking below the steep scree rising towards the tower. Leave the main path and follow a vague trail rising at first between the dwarf pines and then along the right-hand side of the scree reaching the wide gully dividing Torre Pian dei Buoi from Torre Artù. Head towards right reaching the right-hand side of a little spur situated before the tower and then the base of a rocky gully where the route starts.
L1 – Up the rocky gully, easy at first, then more difficult, climbing some steep sections and reaching a comfortable stance. III, IV, 35 m. Belay’s pegs
L2 – Carry on along the gully, climbing a very steep but short wall, then along easier rocks leading to another comfortable stance just below a magnificent black corner. III+, IV, 35 m. Belay’s pegs
L3 – Climb the beautiful corner reaching a little stance inside it. IV+, 25 m. Belay’s pegs
L4 – Continue up the corner’s ending part, climbing a jammed block, then an overhang (crux). Easier rocks lead to a stance in a little saddle below the ending wall. IV+, V, 25 m. Belay’s pegs
L5 – From the stance head towards right, reaching the bottom of the ending wall. Climb a steep little wall, then a black crack; easier rocks lead to a shoulder below the summit.
From the shoulder scramble up to the summit.
Descent: from the top scramble down to the shoulder (cairn), then head towards Torre Artù, reaching an equipped belay under a huge block. A first abseil leads to a rocky gully; from here two abseils inside the gully and an easy scramble are leading to the basal scree.
Rope 2 x 50 mt., helmet, ribbons, friends 2,5 – 3, ten expresses.
On the Alps the ibexes escaped their extinction in the XIX century and saved themselves at first with the establishment in the Western Alps of the Royal Hunting Reserve of Grand Paradiso in the year 1836 and successively, in the year 1922, of the Gran Paradiso National Park (P.N.G.P.).
In the Eastern Alps and in the Dolomites the ibex is today present by means of the repopulations realized by the Swiss Confederation and the Gran Paradiso National Park. In the Marmarole Group there is an important colony of ibexes whose forefathers were introduced by the Swiss Confederation.
There are not particular restrictions in climbing or hiking; Marmarole had been acknowledged inside the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE natural sites' list and requires the best care and respect. On SP you can find more info about Dolomiti Unesco World Heritage in my article: Dolomites living mountains.
Unesco Official website: Dolomiti Unesco
Owner: CAI sez. Lozzo di Cadore
Guardian: Dal Pont Enzo
Phone:+39 0435 76276 - Mobile +39 347 5356448
Best season goes from June to the end of September
DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008 CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org
“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte I by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI
“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Ed. IDEA MONTAGNA
Tabacco n. 16 (Centro Cadore) –
Tabacco n. 17 (Auronzo di Cadore) 1:25.000