Tour Buses Welcome, 5.10, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

(photo above is the 3rd pitch crux)

My favorite fully bolted 5.10 route in the Stronghold.  I prefer trad thus always end up climbing the sport routes last as I climb an area out.  This is one of those gems you find in the process.  The first pitch is an easy warm up (5.9) to two outstanding pitches above.  The second pitch takes 11 clips traversing right through a roof on multiple dikes and then stemming back left up a shallow corner.  Edge and slab climbing aplenty with a few finger crack slots along the way.  The last pitch stems up through an inverted section via cool stemming and intricate slab.  Excellent movement, excellent rock and well bolted from bottom to top.

This route is located just south of Mystery of the Desert in the center of Muttonhead.  The first pitch climbs the right side of a one pitch length arete.  Have You Seen It, 5.10, 2 Pitches, is another fully bolted route just to the right and worth combining with Tour Buses at a similar grade.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 70’-5.9/ This pitch is really closer to 5.8 by Cochise standards but offers great movement for the grade.  Starts just right of Mystery of the Desert, climbing the right side of an arete to a fixed anchor. 

2^nd Pitch- 85’-5.10/ This is an excellent lead in Cochise featuring a lot of variety packed into one pitch through 11 clips (vs 8 listed in the guide as of 2022).  Traverse up and right crossing below the roof on a dike with solid exposure.  A hidden (and key) side pull is out right helping you climb the right side of the bolt line, eventually stemming back left into the shallow corner and making intricate edge and slab moves trending left to a blunt arete stance and fixed rap anchor. Sustained cool pitch.

3^rd Pitch- 85’-5.10/ Climb up the left side of the bolt line on positive edges and then traverse right into the shallow corner making cruxy slab moves at the grade for a few meters.  It eases up to the fixed rap.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap the route via three single 60m rope raps to the ground.

Essential Gear

60m rope.  Dozen draws.  Receives mostly sun during the winter months.