I am a desert off width climber and don't normally find 5.9's strenuous in the least, but this is a tricky and physical short section that is the crux of this route. The key I believe is a quick foot stack that sort of resolves the inability to get a heel toe that would help connect some jams. The first pitch was surprisingly stellar. I cannot imagine bypassing it for any reason. The 3rd pitch had cool exposure. We simuled to the top on the 3rd pitch, ground that many would not hesitate soloing. "hiking dikes" Good stuff. I had a 5, 4 and 3 which were fine. 2 4's would work as well.
Such a great climb! I opted for the crack out left and found that alot better after spending about 20 mins stuck inside the ow. The last pitch was so much fun...incredible!
With Greg. I thrashed and flailed on the off-width.
Maybe not deserving of 50 Classics status but a great route nonetheless. The 5.9 ow was slippery and a wierd size but doable.
Thank god I followed that 2nd pitch OW crap. Makes me want to learn how to do OW properly. Guy in a group in front of us tried to lead it but couldnt get through the crux, his partner however made it look beautiful and easy. Very cool to watch someone do it right. Crack above the OW is AMAZING though, although I was pretty pumped from the OW to enjoy it. P1 does have an awkward move, pretty weird, looked good from bellow! Everything else is fun as well. Finished the day with a run up Pyramid peak c2c in about 3 hours 30 mins.
Followed all but final pitch w/SKI
Great climb on awesome rock. Definitely not your typical leap sequence of moves until the final pitch if climbing with a 70.
P1 is definitely a bit of an eye opener, the topo isn't kidding about "awkward" jams. If you lack height, and lack technique, the low crux zones is even more awkward.
P2 is awesome, glorious writhing up that thing. "This obstacle was overcome with the fine art of struggling" to quote Kor RE: a different climb. After that a hero handcrack, awesome!
P3 was cool, short but cool, the step over the arete is awesome with the wind and exposure, just unreal setting.
P4 dike hike (back to same 'ole leap climbing)
First pitch was very heads-up.
Aided through the awefulwidth.
Spicey moves on that sweet arete!
Cool dike hike to the top out.
'Bout sums it up!
Lead pitches 1-3, followed final pitch with WML
on a high quality rock. With Kris. I recommend removing helmet before getting into the offwidth.
First attempt, came up late afternoon and skirted the 1st pitch. Just led the 2nd pitch. No cams, just nuts and hexes. Used a #11 Chouinard Hex to protect the OW-slotted it just above the inside hand hold at the cux. Later came back and led the whole deal. Fun.
Climbed with Liz; her second multi-pitch and she cruised the whole thing. Skipped the OW on P2 in favor of the finger crack to the left, which felt 5.10. We really enjoyed the first three pitches; the last two were endless dike hikes.
led all the P's and a little scetched out. we lived though.
A fun route with a stout, "in your face" crux. A lot of fun.