Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.07573°N / 11.10521°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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F |
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Overview
Hoher Seeblaskogel is the highest peak in a ridge line starting in the north at Winnebachjoch and ending in the south at Grüne Tatzen (Green Paws) plateau. It has a high and rugged west face, and appears as a fortress-like broad peak from north-east, but is easily accessible through 2 adjacent scree gullys heading south-southeast and south-southwest and meeting some 90 m below the summit in the broad upper basin of Grüne-Tatzen-Ferner (= glacier -- note it's actually hardly more than a snowfield).
The fortress
The former of them leads to Westfalenhaus, about 2270m, while the latter leads to Winnebachseehütte, about 2380m. Thus it is quite easy to conceive a fine traverse using these 2 gullys. Both of the gullys have quite steep sections at around 2700 m, but the path is well discernable and clearly marked with red&white spots and stripes, so the way is also relatively safe under foggy conditions (although the splendid views are also safely hidden from being relished in this case).
Deep winter view of the 2 gullys
The traverse may be performed in either direction almost all the year round. In winter and spring it may be done as a ski tour. The altitude difference is moderate to both sides, being about 850 m to Winnebachseehütte and almost 1000 m to Westfalenhaus.
Getting There
Winnebachseehütte in the west is reached in a 2-hours-ascent from Gries in the Ötztal (beware of avalanches in winter). Westfalenhaus in the north-east is reached from Lisens in the Kühtai-Sellrain range of northernmost Stubai alps. Both huts have open winter rooms, and Westfalenhaus is also guarded in late winter and spring, while Winnebachseehütte is only guarded for 4 months in summer.Route Description
Marked overview from W on Winnebachsee hut ascent
Tongue of Bachfallenferner
Middle of the ascent gully
Bachfallenferner pano
The traverse is described here from west to east.
Leave Winnebachseehütte eastward following the sign "Seeblaskogel". After a few dozens of meters of ascent you reach sort of a plateau which you pass slowly mounting southeastward until you reach the tongue of Bachfallenferner (ending in a beautiful lake) at about 2600 m. Here you see the scree gully leading up to your left, embedded between to accompagnying ridges (the right one bears the plateau called "Grüne Tatzen"). Turn left at the sign post with the panel "Do not lean on bikes here" and enter the first gully.
Mounting over about 400 m of altitude you will gain better and better views south over the mountains surrounding Bachfallenferner. Finally the gully ends at about 3100 m where the 2 accompagnying ridges merge. Looking north, you now see clearly the snow field (upper end of Grüne-Tatzen-Ferner) you have to cross till the end (about 300 m) to reach the beginning of the summit ridge.
The snow field to be crossed
The summit ridge
The upper part of the descent gully with the summit
The end of the descent gully
Looking out to Westfalenhaus
Follow this ridge in grade I UIAA climbing - permitting magnificent views to the north and in particular down to Westfalenhaus - for about 70 m of altitude to the top.
To descend to Westfalenhaus, you return to the middle of the snow field and then, turning left, head down this gully on a mostly clear, steepening path to the flat sole of the valley at about 2500 m. Here you turn left and hold out for Westfalenhaus in about another 1.5 km distance.