Climbers on Troutdale Pinnacle
Troutdale Pinnacle is situated on Black Crag (NY263 172)in Borrowdale slightly further along the valley from the popular Shepherds Crag.
This 6 pitch (105m) British Severe features in British Classic Rock and is a magnificent climb at its grade. The Borrowdale volcanic rock is clean and sound with good protection in delightful, often exposed settings, with lovely views.
Combined with Little Chamonix on Shepherds Crag, about 20mins walk away, these 2 routes offer a fantastic days classic climbing.
Due to its popularity its best to arrive early; on hot summers days with long queues taking water and food on the climb is recommended.
View from the top of the first pitch showing the approach to the crag
Take the Borrowdale road from Keswick past Shepherds crag and the High Lodore Farm and Borrowdale Hotel for about 500m where there are small parking bays on the left of the road just past the Derwent Hotel.
Walk back along the road for about a hundred metres and follow the lane, marked Troutdale, past several cottages and a farm. Follow the path next to the stream up to the obvious crag ahead.
The path leads directly to the start of the route which can be found on a right slanting crack and then an easy traverse line below a fallen tree.
Top of the 2nd pitch
4th pitch Sunbathing on the pinnacle
1 21m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse right to a tree and then head up to a good block belay.
2 28m Head up a groove on he right to a broken slab which taverses up and right easily to a large ledge with a corner on its right
3. 10m Ascend the steep corner awkwardly (?crux) but on good holds then left to a small stance before the sweep of slabs on the left.
4. 21m An exposed traverse, left and down, though on good holds and good protection, leads to the headwall and a pull out and up to ledges
5. 12m Easy climbing leads to the wonderfully exposed Pinnacle belay.
6. Carefuly traverse the ridge off the pinnacle and climb the steep and exposed groove on the right. When this comes against the head wall above pull over left using a wonderful jug hold (it is there, just feel around for it!)and climb more easily to the finish.
Good rack of nuts, cams and slings. Two ropes are useful to prevent rope drag but one single rope will suffice. Wear a helmet! This is a popular route and there will be, as ofen or not, climbers above you.
External LinksLake District National Park Website
FRCC Guide to Borrowdale
Lake District Rock FRCC Guide 2003