Turski Zleb (means: Couloir of Turska Gora) is a wide couloir between the north face of Rinke and Turska Gora. This route can be used for ascent on Turska Gora, Rinke, Skuta, and even Grintovec. I think it is very popular, even in winter, when weather is fine and snow conditions are good (but definitely not after a snowfall), and because it is quite near to the Frischaufov Dom at Okreselj plateau.
When climbing in the couloir, one can enjoy great views to the north, down the walley, and Mrzla Gora, and its neighbours.
|View to north |
|Ridge of Mrzla Gora
From Okreselj plateau take the marked route to Turski Zleb (signs show the way). At the first junction turn right, at the second turn left. After about 20 minutes the terrain gets steeper, this is a scree field (in winter it could be a dangerous avalanche area). About 400 vertical meters above Okreselj begins the couloir itself.
|Looking up in the middle |
|Looking down in the middle
On a few sections the route is assured with steel ropes and pegs. I think in summer the center of the couloir is not suitable for climbing because it is filled with loose rocks and scree, that is why the marked route leads on the right of the couloir. At the lower section the steepness is about 45-50°, on higher reaches could be 50-55° (these are not "official" values). When there is snow in, progression is much easier, but that also depends on the condition of snow.
Overall, the height difference is about 300 m between entrance and the ridge.
This is a moderate difficult route, just a little technical, rather physically demanding.
In summer, and when there is not much snow, good shoes are enough. Wear a helmet for safety (as rocks could fall from above). Also a sit harness and a via ferrata set might be useful.
In snowy conditions, full winter equipment is necessary - crampons, ice axe, and even rope is suggested if the couloir is icy.