Secure solo for the grade with some exposure through the chimney up top. Climb the obvious right leaning ramp/crack that continues via lessor climbing than the grade to a ledge and base of a chimney. Enter the off width via jugs and use a chicken wing for a meter or two and finish on the right side slab by pulling out at the top of the crack with a solid hidden hold. Walk off the back to the west and north. Descent can be complicated the first few times until you get it down. Dow
Way better climb and rock than Bisk at the other end of the wall and Miramontes guide gives it a recommendation (star) and not Easy Day? Climb the well featured plates along the obvious crack on the right side of the wall at a base nestled in trees (2018). Several cool crack/flake sections for the grade. A secure solo with a rap anchor at top. Dow
Better than Blistering, not as good as Easy Day. Not as obvious to find as the others on this wall. Climb up a 5th class right facing corner chimney and access a decent hand crack which offers some steep climbing at the grade. Guide does not show it well, but you can reach the shared fixed anchor out right via a 5th class exposed traverse. Dow
For whatever reason Marc left Touche' Away off his list of routes along with Give a Mouse a Cookie, 5.10b. Both are starred routes in Miramontes guide and Touche was established in 1979. Miramontes has it at 150', but it raps easily with a 70m rope. It is just around the corner on the true north face, but listed in Miramontes guide on the northeast face with the bulk of the other routes. This is a tricky lead for 5.9 in Jtree. The obvious flaring and lichen covered finger crack below the right facing slanting corner is not the start. Rather the next finger crack right is where you can get pro. The off the deck move is committing, but then bomber gear. This crack is maybe 20' tall, but sustained at the grade. Then traverse way left to the chossy corner. Stem up it placing a few tricky pieces before eventually hitting huge patina jugs with horizontal placements at a much easier grade to cold shuts (2016).
I led this route in the late evening. I felt it was a bit sandbagged, but still fun.
2nd time on this route. Chris's lead.
on and around this thing when lines were getting silly later in the day near Hidden Valley, so crossed the road to turtle! Great spot to catch a sunset!