I had attempted this mountain prior in 2011 and failed to summit. Returning 5 years later with Paul M in tow I found that the pinnacle is very much changed. The upper tower is gone, and a cleave in the rock has created somewhat of a stairway to the summit. Seems much less consolidated than before, the new cleave in the summit formation will likely send most of the tower down into Frances Lake sometime in the next winter or two.
this is summitlog entry #200 for me on Summitpost, yay!
so do you think a rope is still needed or with the cleave you mention, is it not really needed now. Glad you got up there to check this out and summit!
No rope necessary at this time. You might want to take some webbing and runners, there is a piece of the summit that is slightly higher and is crumbling away from the main fin that can be a little dangerous to reach out and touch.
It appears that more and more of the summit pinnacle is falling off the east and west. The summit register no longer exists on top, my guess is it's located far below to the west down in the talus fields. "House of cards" correctly describes the summit. This was my final peak off of the Oregon's highest 100 peaks list. Quite a way to finish the list!
Yes, those 2 rap slings are still wrapped around a house of cards. Rock you can see through while you climb - not a big deal.
Hiked with Bob. Nice little scramble on top. There are fewer loose rocks on the route now. We used the existing rapel slings even though they looked like they were wrapped around a pile of loose rocks.
Really deep snow and high avalanche danger kept us from getting past the ridge, but I plan on trying it again next year.
I would say that this is the hardest summit to reach in all of the Wallowa's. I grew up in La Grande and have spent my early years climbing all over the Wallowa Mountains. Twin Peaks can be seen from a lot of other peaks and it is an eye catcher. Glad to have made it to the top.
Ive wanted to climb this peak for years, and finally, Ive done it! I climbed to the very top of the north pinnacle. The scariest (and stupidest) thing I have ever done. Terrifying is an understatement. There were very few names in the summit register on top, I was probably the 15th, since the book was placed in 1992.
Took the trail to Legore Lake and from there ascended the north flank of Twin Peak. This is a beautiful mountain, but with the bright red color topped by the two black pinnacles it also has an evil, sinister look. I chickened out and did not do the last 40 ft. or so of the taller pinnacle. But I was alone and lacked the appropriate gear so not attempting to scale the last few feet was the wise choice. I studied it for quite some time, trying to convince myself there was a way, but it was beyond my skill and people at home need me.
Looking south over the magnificent Hurricane Ridge I could see one bighorn ewe and further below, 14 mountain goats lounged on the green grass near the small unnamed lake. There are also moraines and other glacial features to view, and even in September, huge snow packs can be found in the vicinity.
Pinnacle was SCARY. Hangs over 4,000 drop & my brother Pat had to put my foot onto a hold below overhang on descent about 12 ft below top. (As well he should since he's the one who insisted on leaving the rope in the car.) Not one you can solo.