Twinkle Toes Traverse is a very enjoyable climb, located on Machete Ridge in the West Side of the Pinnacles. Rubine's guide to the Pinnacles rated it a 5.6, while Young's new book rates it a 5.5. However, both guidebooks give it two stars.
Spring and fall are the primary climbing seasons at the Pinnacles. It is possible to climb the route in during hotter weather as it remains shaded during the morning hours.
Machete Ridge Sign
Twinkle Toes Traverse is located on Machete Ridge. From the West Side parking lot take the Balconies Cave Trail. Before you reach the caves, you will see a climber's access sign. Following the directions on the sign, use the climber's trail to reach the base of Dos Equis, an obvious water chute. To reach the base of Twinkle Tows Traverse, move about 100 feet left along a small ledge, past an oak tree. The route starts in the prominent right facing corner.
There are two bolts on the first pitch of this route. The crux of the route, moving out of the corner, can be protected by nuts and cams. After you move out of the corner, you can see the first anchor, which is located in scoop.
The second pitch traverses across the face to the second anchor, located on a pillar or small ledge. This pitch is protected by 4 bolts, including the famous barn door handle, which Young refers to as "a bit of 1970's climber humor." There is some loose rock near the ledge, so be careful. It is plainly visible and it is not necessary to use it.
You can either rappel from the anchors at the top of the second pitch, with two ropes, or you can traverse (loose third class) to the top of Bandits in Bondage and rappel from there. Again, two ropes are required for the 130 foot rappel. I recommend rappeling from the top of Bandits in Bondage as it is very hard to pull the ropes if you rappel from the top of the second pitch. Also, there is a rope eating tree at the base of the rappel from the top of the second pitch.
A small rack of nuts and cams, in addition to draws and material to build anchors. Two ropes are required for the rappel.
The Start of Twinkle Toes Traverse The first pitch of Twinkle Toes Traverse A climber belaying from the second anchor