I've heard that the bypass of the U-notch schrund is easy fifth class if the snow level is high, and 5.8 otherwise. After this, did you cross back into the u-notch, or did you continue up the rock ?
It was easy for us. Certainly not 5.8. We stayed on the rock for about 40 feet then moved back onto the snow. The top two rock pitches (from the notch) are a bit harder (5.6). We brought a pair of rock shoes for the leads and I followed in my boots.
Years ago we climbed the rock on the right of the schrund all the way up to the slopes below the upper snowfield. A very fun climb that went about 5.8 YDS.
Cool. Would you say the 5.8 section(s) were closer to the top ?
Definetly the 5.8 sections were closer to the top. Most of the climbing was maybe 5.6 or so.