Ulrichspitze west face

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 46.67310°N / 8.18100°E
Route Type: Rock Climb
Time Required: Most of a day
Difficulty: IV


Best start is from Engelhorn hut.

Route Description

Besides traversing Ulrichspitze it is also nice to climb its west face directly from Ochsen Valley. The first 300 meters are identical with the start to the Mittelgruppe traverse. Before you reach the Ruppspitz you do not go to the right towards Gemssattel, but climb directly to the Ruppspitz, first in a small couloir, then over its ridge. Continue the climb towards the Mittelspitze, then traverse to the left on grassy ground. Now crest on a ridge heading to the saddle Mittelspitze/Ulrichspitze. You reach a steep wall, climb it directly, first somewhat to the left, then to the right. From the top of this wall leads a couloir to the saddle where you join the traverse of the Mittelgruppe. 4 hours from Ochsen Valley. Very exposed.

Essential Gear

40 m rope, some biners

Miscellaneous Info

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