Unfinished Symphony, 5.11d

5th Pitch- 40m- 5.11d (5.10, A0)/ If you fail to free this pitch, it is easy to aid through. The first 20’ or so is easy going. There is a slight face edge to stand up on the right wall that gets you to a great rest stance with your left foot. Then both flaring walls turn blank and the fun begins. The best way for me to describe this section is a corner within a corner. This feature is quite unusual. The varnished walls become blank and slick leaving you with two choices. Face in or out. In either circumstance, you will be looking for awkward arm bars and/or chicken wings to inch up the blank and slightly overhanging walls. I placed both my C4 #6’s and one #5 through this section. It is tough for 20’+/-, then eases way up as a hand crack with features galore appears, but maintains its steep and fun nature. You can place gear at will (if you have the appropriate rack) on the entire pitch. It is my opinion that the three mank (2012) bolts should be removed and not replaced. If anything they get in the way unless you are aiding. The belay at the top of this pitch is a bit odd, slung slings below a large sandy block whilst sitting on a sloping block. It is not an overly comfortable belay and you can get eaten up with gnats in May while waiting for the 2nd.
Unfinished Symphony, 5.11d, 5 Pitches, Icebox Canyon, Red Rock, NV, May, 2012

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