A rather wild climb with Mark Savoca on a very hot--even muggy--summer day. All went fine until we hit the snow fields heading towards the saddle... then... not. The snow was too hard for ice axes, so we went up the scree; we probably climbed (crawled) the slope three times to top out near the saddle. A wayward way up to the far side of the Unicorn ridge (lots of rockfall going up) and made it to the top to find huge thunderheads bearing down on us from the north. A tense trip down, rushing to beat a thunderstorm that seemed immanent, but which never happened. Long, tense day, but fun...
A much more enjoyable climb than I expected. It would be fun to go back in the winter and spring.
Beautiful trip up, a little slow going in the chute and on a few of the screefields up top. Very little snow left except for the large snowfield below the summit...significant moat, we had to be a little cautious on the rocks on the way up. Great rock climb to the top of the horn, my first 5th class summit. Unfortunately, an injury in the party on the way down (near the snowfield) kept us busy for the rest of the day and night with an evacuation. We sent party members ahead to alert rangers, and before dark a group of rangers arrived to coordinate a litter evac. from the base of the chute. Exhausting experience, but will hopefully go back to climb it again under different circumstances. A beautiful mixed climb with amazing views of Rainier.
Climbed on a shi foggy day, so there were no views of Ranier or the other Tatoosh peaks. Fun little summit pinnacle - I climbed the easy route on the southeast side, then downclimbed and tried another route on the south face. Got back to the car at 2pm just as it started raining and headed up to Paradise to check out the flowers (and the crowds!).
Fantastic weather. Left car at 9:45 and reached base of rock section in approx. 2 hours. Very easy approach. My first alpine rock lead. Tried to pick the hardest route but kept getting interrupted by the beautiful view of Rainier, Little T, and other Tatoosh Range Mountains. Rappelled off using the existing webbing and ring (both in very good shape).
With Tanya and Fred Spicker. Had it all to ourselves except for a bunch of goats (real ones). Very hot! Snow firm but doable without crampons in the morning. Softened nicely for the descent. Beautiful views.
How come the trail out is more uphill than down? Groan.
Climbed with Moni & Tanya Spicker. A very hot day. We were the only party on the peak.
There is still plenty of snow on the approach. The moat at the top of the last snowfield is starting to open up, but we still found a walk off on to the rock.
Great time on Unicorn. One big group ahead of us on the pinnacle made for slow going. We climbed the South Chimney on the pinnacle, one very short pitch with a 5.6 crux.
Highly recommended for a short alpine climb. 2 snow pitches in the 30-35 degree range, short rock scramble at the top (easiest route is 4th class) and great glissades back down.
Easy approach. The snow gave way to a very chossie but fun climb.
This was our 2nd peak of the Tatoosh Traverse. Fun climb up from Snow Lake, lots of scree and a small patch of steep snow. We scrambled up the SE route, no pro, no ropes.
Summited with no veiw due to poor weather. On the way down the weather cleared and we had great veiws of the Peak. Route is partly snow covered making for a fun mixed snow/rock climb. Will be back, only earlier in the season next time.
Busy route this weekend! We saw several large parties and quite a few smaller ones.
Climbing conditions are really good right now:
- Snow all the way to the trailhead, but it's firm enough that you don't need snow shoes.
- The snow is pretty solid over the creeks and broken talus above Snow Lake, so no plunging into rocky caverns.
- Unicorn Glacier is filled in to the top of the headwall so no rock scrambling to get off the glacier and no moat to negotiate.
- Summit pinnacle completely free from snow.
- Great glissading from the summit back to Snow Lake!
My wife and I climbed this peak in nasty weather - snow/rain mix + fog. Did not have any views. This was my first alpine trad lead. Interesting climb - a nice mix. of somewhat steep snow approach + scree + 1 pitch of easy rock - all packed into the 5 or 6 round trip miles!
Our first peak of the Tatoosh Traverse, and one of the best summits of the range. We camped at the saddle, and enjoyed and incredible sunset and sunrise. Next time, I'll bring skis. The little bump to the right was the first summit for my best climbing buddy, Jon Gessle (Mt. Gesswick? such hubris!) and now he's gone on to greater things, but this was his humble start.
Excellent afternoon climb! We left Snow Lake trailhead at around 11:00 am and hiked the first mile on dry trail. The hiking turned to snow slogging at Snow Lake and we soon switched to crampons for some 40 degree snow slopes. The last part of the climb is some rock scrambling and one 40 foot easy 5th class pitch to climb the spire. An easy rap off the top and we were on our way down by mid-afternoon.
Stunning views of Mt. Rainier the entire way.