We had the mountain all to ourselves! Note we accidentally went a slightly wrong route on the accent and got into some pretty rotten class 4 stuff. for the summit we took the far right route, the "class 4 walk up" It felt like low class 5 at times, with intense exposure, but overall not too difficult.
Here is a video I made from the climb:
3 hours up and 2 and a half hours back, rock scarambled Class 3 on small sream to the left after the trail end at Snow Lake, Class 4 scrambled up a sketchy gully and finished on the 5.6 classic route on the 50 ft summit. Proceeded to play accordion for Rainier!
First alpine rock experience, a sick climb! The tatoosh are underrated
The glissades on the way down were epic
Beautiful day to summit while the weather held off with Rainier visible in the background the whole time.
Climbed some talus, snow, then class 3 rock to the summit pyramid. One short easy 5th class pitch to the top - clipped an old piton and placed a cam. Great views of Rainier! Traversed to Foss and Pinnacle next.
Not sure why my entry from 2005 was deleted. Climbed this with David Kantola back then. Did this and The Castle this day.
Klenke is right about the exposure on the "Class 4" route. I soloed it, but not without the same initial hesitation that he had. What a drop!
There were probably 50 people in the summit area. The Mountaineers and the Mazamas were in full effect. I have never seen anything like it.
After several other plans fell through, this was a last-minute choice and it proved to be a good one. We took the Class 4 route up (roped), and then rappelled from the tree snag mentioned in other reports. It was hot up there, and two big groups from Oregon were also summiting. Highly recommended.
It was non-stop thrills.
We made short work of the "normal" route and the "crack" route. The party following us up had a somewhat scary lead climber fall.
Glissade down was pretty top-notch.
Great snow for kicking up and the final summit pitch was dry. Led the 5.6 crack route. Fun little climb and awesome views of rainier
Hot day and only party on top!
This was to be the second day of a Mazama's climb that was cancelled due to unforeseen reasons. Five of us decided to do it anyways and had a great time. Beautiful day, only the upper snow field was covered and required crampons. We were the first to the summit block and utilized the second route to the right.
Everyone agreed it was a nice varied climb for relative newbies, as we got to use all the new skills we learned over the past year in BCEP.
I climbed this with the Mazamas last June. We had beautiful weather and a generally uneventful climb. We started around 8 and hit snow almost immediately out of the parking lot. It's a gradual hike to the lake that involved some route-finding. Then we hit the snow chutes, which seemed quite steep to me (admittedly my experience is limited). We did use crampons and ice axes for the two snow chutes. After that, we hit the rock pinnacle and climbed I think the 5.0 route -- it was around the side from the 5.6 routes and didn't have any crazy exposure, which I've heard the 4th class route has. Anyway, it was a super easy climb. I had been stressed most about the rock part and found it to be the easiest part of the climb. We then repelled off the front part of the pinnacle (by the 5.6 routes), where I took a lovely pendulum swing and banged an already injured leg into a rock wall, so go me! For complete newbies like me, the repel was more challenging because it went against the fall line. Finally, we glissaded down the upper snow chute but opted to avoid glissading the lower snow chute due to some exposed rocks.
So a little of everything -- I took this right after taking the Mazamas basic climbing class, and it's well suited for that. Other thoughts -- avoid later summer climbs because getting up those chutes is way easier when there's snow.
Unicorn, Foss, The Castle, and Pinnacle. See my report:
We raced a bus load of The Mountaineers and beat them to the summit block. We climbed the 5.6 route.
Beautiful, rare sunny day! Great views of Rainier throughout much of the route.
Good day in the Tatoosh as usual. Clouds were in and out all day and I can definitely see why this is a good early summer climb. Would have been a hell of a lot easier with snow in the upper bowls. Right side 5.0 lines had a bit of exposure and was nerve-wracking being the only guy on the mountain!
My first (successful) climb with the Mazamas after BCEP. Very enjoyable climb despite the clouds hiding the view.
Compared to it's immediate neighbor to the north (Mt. Rainier), Unicorn Peak isn't tall or heavily glaciated. But it does feature two exciting snow chutes and a perfect rock summit block. We climbed the 5.4 route just to the right of the 5.6 route with a roof climb on a boulder at the top of the route. I lead and it took a #4 and #12 nut, plus a draw into the shaky old bolt in the middle of the route. I clipped the bolt because it was there, but I wouldn't advice falling on it.