Unnamed, 5.9

Approach

Unnamed is a route we did right after Leopard Skin in the section of Island in the Sky they call the sand dunes area because of course it is directly across the road from the sand dunes in Snow Canyon. Park at the West Canyon day use parking lot. Walk south on paved road for about 100 yards. Head east across the wash to an obvious scree slope for access to the second tier. Once on the second tier you need to traverse right all the way over to the base of a long right facing chimney.

Route Description

There is a route named Stranger than Friction (5.8) that ramps up the left facing wall of the chimney. Continue right and you will find a challenging route that is bolted, but was not listed in any guide book I had in 2005. There is an off width crack to follow and another line of bolts that show up to your left that go off on another unnamed route. The moves are best shown in the photos above.

Rap back down to the lower tier and head back north to where you ascended.

Essential Gear

Many of the routes in Snow Canyon require two ropes for rappels. A dozen quickdraws, small rack of cams and of course helmet and climbing shoes. This is the desert, so plenty of water is never a bad idea.

Images

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