Up and over the Zufallspitze

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Up and over the Zufallspitze
Created On: Nov 3, 2010
Last Edited On: Nov 4, 2010

The plan

Monte Cevedale is a beautiful peak in the Ortles-Cevedale group, with great views all around. To make it a bit more interesting, we opted not to take the normal route on the way up, but come from the east and traverse the Zufallspitze.

Pre dawn in the Martell valleyBefore dawn

Early start

We started before dawn, at the Marteller hüttte, because the weather forecast predicted bad weather in the afternoon.


The sun rose shortly after we reached the glacier, the Fürkeleferner to be precise. The snowy dome on the right is the northern Zufallspitze, the more rocky one on the left the southern, or Südliche Zufallspitze. We're going to climb it over the east ridge, which is coming from the left in the picture.
ZufallspitzenThe Zufallspitzen



The glacier lies north of the ridge and it's actually possible to gain the ridge early, without having to go on the glacier. However, since you'll need glacier equipment anyway to traverse from the Zufallspitze to Cevedale, we walked on the glacier for a while and got on the ridge rather late - well west of the Fürkelescharte / La Forcola, where the route from Rifugio Larcher joins the ridge.

The ridge

Mostly, the ridge is wide and easy hiking over lots of small rocks and scree, with the occasional nice bit of scrambling thrown in.
Looking south from the ridge towards Palon de la Mare
On the east ridge to the Zufallspitze
East ridge of the Zufallspitze
East ridge of the Zufallspitze
Vedretta de la Mare and Palon de la Mare from the east ridge to the Zufallspitze
False summit


Before noon we reached the southern Zufallspitze, and after a short break we continued to Cevedale itself.

Monte Cevedale from Cima CevedaleCevedale from the southern Zufallspitze
Clouds moving in - view from CevedaleView from Cevedale

Looking south from CevedaleThe weather is moving in from the south

Going down

Ice face on CevedaleIce face NE of Cevedale
Bad weather approachingBad weather approaching
Looking down the Cedec valleyCedec valley

After Cevedale, we went down the normal route to the Casati hut, and after a short break we continued further down into the Cedec valley, to Rifugio Pizzini-Frattola, where we would spend the next two nights. They served the best food I ever had in a mountain refuge!


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Up and over the Zufallspitze

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